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Mk1 Escort Rebuild – Retropower Gordon Murray Episode 13


In this episode we get a catch up on progress with the car prior to it going in for exhaust fabrication


Here’s Episode 13:








Transcript :

coming back to the front of the car has
led me to think about one of the things
I’m quite proud of on this guy
we were talking last time about the sort
of parts that we’re getting done
elsewhere and almost straight after
filming the last episode the fuel tank
arrived so that’s a good place to start
fuel tank was designed by us and
fabricated by Bob at concept Racing who
we kind of give all of our sort of weld
porn aluminium fabrication if you like
just because he’s a pretty good at that
sort of thing
and so when we had the car bare metal we
fabricated a plinth at the bottom there
to sit the fuel tank on – we didn’t kind
of integrated the design where the fuel
tank was going to see it and we
integrated mounts into the shell for it
then we did the actual drawings for the
tank itself it’s a foam filled tank it’s
got a video tube type sender in there in
the middle of the top which has got a
float in the middle for the feed to the
gauge and then it’s got a drop-down pot
in the middle under here which drops
into a recess that we actually
incorporated into the body shell and
that’s only connected to the main part
of the tank via some very small holes
and that’s that’s sort of your main part
of your anti surge protection so when
when the tanks reasonably low on fuel
and your cornering hard or breaking
accelerating hard doesn’t matter where
the fuel sloshes in the tank that pot
will always have their sort of reserve
of fuel in it so there’s no interruption
to the fuel supply to the engine so that
pot then feeds this Bosch fuel pump here
basho 44 pump out the filter and then
out through these bulkhead fittings
which run to the front of the car via
the fuel rail and back again and then
the return goes back into the pot so the
fuels always being circulated in the
return of fuel feeds back into that pot
making extra sure that that pot always
has a reserve of fuel in it and then the
phone filling on the tank obviously
helps as well that just means there’s
literally like an open cell
fuel resistant foam that fills the hole
fills the whole of that tank so when
you’re filling when you fill the tank
with fuel effectively it’s kind of
absorbed into a large block of foam if
you like which means that it can’t
quickly slosh around the tank as well
which also helps with the anti surge
there are a couple of details on the
design of the tank the we always
designed it so that the tank would
overhang the fuel pump and filter so we
could do a trim panel off the back of
here which then hides those fuel system
components and that’s what this flange
at the top here part part of it was to
mount this and vent line here and the
other the other reason for that was so
we could mount the trim panel and the
venting we’ve done on the tank is also a
relevant thing to talk about we’ve got a
dash six spigot in both sides at the
front here and then a smaller – through
both sides at the front and there’s two
reasons you need to vent the tank one is
as the fuel expands or contracts or
you’re actually using the fuel obviously
air needs to be able to go into the tank
to take up the space as the fuel level
drops so the small vents in there for
that kind of induced venting if you like
the other venting thing is literally
just a filling issue when you fill the
tank air can actually come out through
the filler neck but you’d probably
always have this it works fine when
you’re jerrycan it but when you use if a
fork or petrol station pump the air rush
up the neck actually clicks the pump out
and you’re you have loads of problems
with the pump clicking out if you don’t
vent it higher than where the end of the
nozzle is which is why and in most cars
particularly all the cars you’ll see
that there’s a vent off the side of the
filler neck a little way down from the
cap which is actually venting air from
the tank out through the filler neck but
above the point of the end of the filler
the nozzle of the gun and that’s what
we’ve done we’ve got a big connection
both sides here they two together and
then they’re attached to a spigot on the
side of the filler neck here so when
you’re actually filling the end of your
filler gun will be down here so the air
is venting out above that but it’s still
coming out and through the actual filler
hole and the reason we’ve got on both
sides is so that regardless of even if
you were filling the car and a slight
slope you would still be able to brim
the tank completely
and if you’re coming up announces other
we wanted to actually use the original
cap so we’ve got the very end of the
original escort filler neck and cut it
that’s moil steel so that we’ve then
made the rest of the pipe in mild steel
so we could weld it to that and then
that’s actually been galvanized which is
the only bit on the car that’s
galvanized most of the mild steel parts
zinc electroplated galvanizing as a
dipping process it’s literally like you
could imagine it as basically dipping
something in molten zinc so that
definitely coats completely that pipe
inside and out so you don’t get any
corrosion I mean obviously we could
obviously paint the outside as well but
the inside wouldn’t get any coating on
it and that would mean over time the
inside of that pipe would would rust
actually is obviously an issue we did
the mounts for that when they when the
shell was a bare metal shell especially
touch on the reason the batteries here
may mainly because of the space in the
engine bay is seriously a premium there
wouldn’t really be room in there for the
battery given that the dry sump tanks in
the engine bay but as an added bonus
it’s also helping with the weight
distribution gets a bit more weight in
the back obviously on earth in a car
light it’s whether you’ve got the engine
and transmission at the front the axle
is a lot lighter than that and you do
end up with a bit more weight at the
front than the back so having a battery
at the back and the spare wheel will go
the other side we actually modified the
side of the floor there so we can get a
full-size spare wheel the same as all
the other ones on the car in there which
means you still maintaining a reasonable
side-to-side weight balance with the
spare in the battery and shifting a bit
more weight sort of towards the back of
the car to help balance out from the
front to rear weight the boot area is
completely sealed from the cockpit of
the car so there’s no fuel risk of fuel
vapor coming out into the car and also
obviously if there was an accident then
and the burst the fuel tank there’s no
risk of that getting into the front of
the car or it happen to be a pretty
serious accident for it for that to
happen this sort of complication to the
pole cutting was that there’s a air
outlet vents here at the back of the
windscreen which which helped with this
through flow of fresh air through the
car that air has to come out somewhere
which is what these are and then there’s
actually a passageway under the scuttle
which leads to these holes on the parcel
shelf that just provided a little extra
challenge on the bull getting because if
we literally built headed straight
paneled straight across under here to
block up these it would have blocked off
that airflow so we’ve done we’ve
basically done like a little sort of
panel that creates a cavity if you like
under there and actually duct the air
from here to here still open but blocks
off completely from the boot area so
that’s not battery cable obviously then
feeds through the car to the front so
I’ll show you where that comes out
so although you can’t see it the battery
cable comes through the car and then
comes up to a little through bulkhead
panel connector on the bulkhead behind
the airbox there on the car side it’s
there’s a second connection which splits
off to feed the PDU and then on the
engine bay side there’s a cable coming
off from there to the starter motor and
then from there to the alternator but
coming back to the front of the car has
led me to think about one of the things
I’m quite proud of on this guy which is
the bonnet release which on these early
cars was just a button in the grille on
the later cars they had a cable inside I
think we talked about this last time in
fact we might have might have seen it
being done but now we’ve had it black
anodized you can kind of see the full
effect that it looks for all the world
like it’s just the normal light style
grille with no bite release button
except this slap here releases the bone
which I thought was quite a little
feature we’ve got the bonnet prop in now
this is the later style arrangement
where the prophecy attaches to the
bonnet we’ve obviously had to make some
reinforcements because this is into a
carbon-fibre bonnet and then the
receptacle down here that’s normally a
spot welded part on the shell but we’ve
kind of always keen to avoid spot welded
brackets like that on the shell because
there’s always when you paint them a
small shadowed area where you just
couldn’t get paint in there which is
always always going to lead to corrosion
so we just put some threaded inserts in
the shell there when it was when it was
a bare metal shell and now we’ve made
that receiver in it’s not stainless
steel that we’ve had powder-coated and
then we made a little nylon plinth that
it sits on so that when the props
actually in it it’s not resting directly
onto the paintwork of the car I’m not
chafing away at the paint there it just
sits onto that nylon pad and so that’s
we’ve also got a strip race in position
now and a more recent addition is the
air box which reverie have supplied the
air box the the standard cause of back
light was too deep to actually fit the
standard off-the-shelf air box in so
we’ve had the back plate made shallower
by reverie so that we could keep because
of backplate and usually our air box in
there and well that’s turned out really
nicely and then this perfectly points
towards the spigot that we fabricated
into the back of the front panel so
there’ll be a flexible part between
there and there so you get cold air flow
we probably talked about this when it
was bare metal but the front panel is
almost completely blocked off apart from
the gap where the radiator is and that
round spigot there so you know all the
air that comes through the grille is
forced either through the radiator or
into the engine there and then I think
the last time we talked about the tanks
that we were just in the process of
making they’re ready to go for anodizing
now that’s the brake and clutch fluid
there’s a level sensor in the back I
don’t know if I mentioned that before
we’ve got a threaded bot in the back but
a float type level sensor sits in
because we wanted to have level sensing
for a warning light but didn’t want an
ugly cap with a wire trailing off over
it so we’ve got a real nice no aluminium
captain that goes on there but it’s got
a still got a level sensor in the back
and that sods the screen wash and that
feeds down through the bulkhead into the
main screen wash tank which I’ll show
so that screen wash tank then feeds down
via a quite a large pipe into this which
is a large screen wash tank and but
we’ve obviously done it to serve two
purposes it’s also doubles as the
footrest for the passenger with the seat
being so far back you need to have a
nice flat surface to rest your feet on
this side and we thought it was a that’s
going to be black anodized and by the
time that’s for the black anodized with
a black carpet around it it’s kind of
like a subtle nod almost to the
navigators footrest of the old rally
cars back in the day but with it being
Blacky a little bit more knock back and
you know so for the pump and we’ll
screen wash pump mounts on the back of
that tank and then feeds up to a revised
screen wash jet arrangement we’ve done
so that feeds screen wash up to the
through the bulkhead through a pipe that
goes to here and that feeds fluid out
into these two plastic extrusions on
each side they’re open on this end and
closed on the other end and they have a
row of very small pinholes in this back
edge which is spaced between the slats
of this scuttle panel so the screen wash
actually Jets out between the slats of
the panel onto the screen so when you
look at the car there isn’t obviously
any screen wash Jets there but there’s
just a number of jets come out between
those slots and then we’ve got a an
updated wiper motor as well which we’ve
done and which sits inside the car we go
back down here probably won’t be able to
see it but up under here is where the
wiper motors are always mounted a my own
escort on the inside of the scuttle so
well we’ve got the the basic mechanism
from the escort we’ve transplanted a
mark six mark seven and transit wiper
motor onto there with a custom crank
that we put onto it so it just has a
much more powerful motor with two speeds
and then we’ll be controlling the
intermittent from the PDU which I’ll
talk about in a bit while we’re in here
also worth
we’ve got a steering column in steering
column is a Opel Manta steering column
which we chose for a couple of reasons
is a collapsible column which the
original isn’t and B the switch gear on
it we absolutely love because it’s just
a single stalk this this the look of
this stalk is exactly what we wanted for
this car it’s kind of just lean and
purposeful and it covers a lot of
functions on just one stalk so you’ve
got indicate on here you’ve got main
beam tip beam half a pull this flash
turn it three-speed wiper so you’ve got
intermittent slow fast and then on the
end to push it the screen wash then
you’ve got a hold on the steering wheel
and with that combination of switch gear
with the headlight switch which is going
to sit in here that pretty much covers
almost all the functions that we need on
just one switch pedal box is in that’s
just an off-the-shelf mark 1s core bias
pedal box so the master cylinders now
sit up under the dash here got one for
the clutch one for the front brake
circuit and one for the rear brake
circuit and the bias is adjusted via
what they call a balance bar which is
just the pivot point that the préval the
pedal pushes between the two master
cylinders biasing the leverage towards
front or rear depending on where you set
it and then we’ve also done the mounts
for the ECU the engine ECU which sits
over that side sort of on the inside of
the footwell panel right up where you
can’t see it behind the dash and then
the PDU sits this side and I’ll talk a
bit more about the PDU in a bit but what
I will do is just take this tank out and
show a few more of the details of this
this is the tank we fabricated this here
what was it done the dimple effect just
a to make it look a bit more interesting
and give a bit of a nod to that
passenger foot resting on the side
threaded bosses on the underside which
we’ve done to the appropriate depth for
the thickness of the carpet it’s
obviously bolted up from underneath two
threaded bosses which were welded on the
inside before we welded the tank up and
that’s where the screen wash pump mounts
that’s the outlet which goes to the
screen watch pump which has a tube on
the inside of the tank which obviously
goes down to the bottom so it’s picking
up fluid from the bottom and then that’s
the spigot that goes up to the fill tank
at the top and this security is looking
piece here is a small tube that comes
out inside here we’re going to be
running a little tube off the back of
that which actually runs inside that
main fill tube so it actually lets the
air flow out from in here into the top
tank whilst you’re filling it so it just
fill it’ll just fill smoothly without
going down into the tank and while we’re
here I’ll show you some of the other
stuff we’ve got these are the fascia
panels we’ve done for the – our mininum
they’ve been water jet cut because the
surface finish of the edges was going to
be the final visible finish so we wanted
them to be really nicely caught on the
sides so that’s the main – fascia panel
that sits in front of the driver you’ll
have a series of warning lights in these
holes and obviously the speedo and taco
and they’re these which we’ve done for a
while actually but never showed you the
instruments we’ve had done these are
done by speed hut in the States and
we’ve asked I asked Gordon and he gave
us the go-ahead to put his Gordon Murray
design when I go on them just because I
thought that would be a really it’s a
nicely proportioned logo to fit on a
gauge so we’ve got those on there on the
taco and on the speedo it’s obviously a
digital Steffen motor drive on both of
these and so they’re extremely shallow
and that’ll be your digital readout for
your trip and you odometer the little
warning lights they go into these holes
they’re just real simple and if you
think back to when we were doing it
roarings we just wanted a real kind of
basic looking fascia that had almost a
nod to kind of that seventies – look if
you like so we’ve got just some basic
LEDs with a little chrome bezel that
almost replicates the bustle of the taco
and then we’ll be getting these fascia
panels anodized black and then we’re
going to be engraving the wording on
through that black anodizing back to the
silver that shows you what the different
warning lights do so it’ll be a main be
morning light indicate Telltale’s and
warning lights for oil pressure
alternator and something else cut and
what the last one would be brake brake
fluid same on this this is the central
panel as the auxiliary gauges in we have
these made not without any indication on
the gauge of what they do because that
will be engraved into the aluminium
underneath each gauge so rather than it
saying on the face of the gauge it’s a
nice little design feature that it’s
engraved underneath and then this piece
sort and goes into here and that as the
control three of the controls there’ll
be the fan speed for the heater the
temperature control for the and the air
direction for the heater which selects
between feet face D mist or combination
of those and then the last one will be
the headlamp switch that’s also going to
be black anodized and will also engrave
onto these are in fact underneath here
will be engraved what those controls do
yeah so that’s kind of the the the
facial panels come in together
we’re just waiting at the moment because
we want to send all of the things
they’re going to be on a dog’s back off
so although we’ve got tons of it already
the bits we haven’t got are the machined
parts for the dryer sump tank because
we’ll be will be analyzed in that black
as well we talked about when I was over
at the car the PDU that’s mounted in the
footwell and so what would quite like to
do is show you a bit more detail of why
we’re using that and and the programming
of that I’ll come to the office come
through to my office
PDU it’s basically a little box like an
ECU it’s got three connectors on it one
is the main power feeding from the
battery and then there are two connected
multi pin connectors there Deutsch
Autosport connectors which are like
really really high spec military spec
connectors one of them has got a large
number I think 50 odd pins really small
pins and the other ones on this unit
which we using which is a 16 channel PD
use got 16 larger pins on it and the
connector with the large number is the
input or the is the input connector and
the other one is the output connector
and essentially on the output connector
each pin on that plug feeds a wire which
goes to a component on the car so that
could be a light or it could be a motor
whatever there there the output channels
you’ve got battery voltage voltage being
fed into the battery and put on there
and then on the input connector
they are feeds in from anything like a
switch on the car this is the software
we’re using a PD from the life Racing by
the way so you’ve basically faced with a
blank grid select which PD you using
we’ve got 16 channel 1 and you’re just
presented with a blank screen like this
simple as that and down the side here
are the components you can add to this
screen and in its most basic form you’ve
got inputs and outputs here so I drag an
input onto here that represents now a
physical input on the input connector
let’s say horns ok that’s more like the
most basic circuits you could do on here
my horn button on the on the car is
connected to pin 15 so I select pin 15
and then drag it out over here I know my
ones connected to pin 8 on the output
connector so I can select pin 8 and then
it’s most simple form all I need to do
is draw a line from there to there and
then whenever I apply voltage or ground
to pin 15 it
turn on the horn but if I then if I put
a different component yeah if I like put
output let’s say side lights which is
output one if I put put one here and
drew the line to that this same input
would turn on the solid lights instead
and then that’s where it gets more
exciting it is when you start going into
more depth on the output properties this
is where the fusing comes into it on the
output properties you can select the
fusing and page that you want that
component to trip out at this one as the
cars with building go this one’s pretty
straightforward some of the things we’ve
done they’re just ridiculous amounts of
electronics on the way it doesn’t get
quite complicated
this one’s reasonably straightforward
because there just aren’t that many
electrical components so I start by
listing all those connectors that will
connect to the main components of the
electrical system lists the individual
wires that will be there and from that
work out what type of connector I’m
going to need once we’ve got that list
of the connectors in the car and the
main ones which are the PDU input and
output connectors i then i’ve got to
work out every wire that connects these
compile these plugs to these plugs list
all those wires and then it would be
working out the length of those wires so
the next stage would be I’ll do a rough
schematic of where the wires will be
routed physically in the car then go and
measure up on the car exactly the length
between all the different components so
then I can fill in my spreadsheet where
there’s a list of all the wires that I
need then I can fill in the length of
each of those wires and then finally the
gauge the thickness to each of those
wise needs to be to cope with the
current that’s going to be true and when
we’ve done that it comes to the easy bit
we just cut all the wires label them or
lay them all out heat shrink em all four
connectors on the ends and hopefully it
all works easy
next stages exhaust is going away next
week to go to BTB and they’re going to
make an exhaust to expect we’ve kind of
agreed between us I’ve seen some of the
work they’ve started which looks amazing
so excited to see that when it comes
back here with everything done better in
the manifold as well so we’re going to
literally stick it on transport it as it
is now they’re going to build the entire
manifold and system or I’ve got to back
which will hopefully get to see you in
the next episode and then it gets
transported back here and we can carry
on the bill in the meantime the
machining work on the dry sump tank
components will be done so we’ll be able
to crack on basically with the next
phase which is getting the oil system
plumbing done just want we’ve got the
exhaust done and the oil plumbing done
at that point we are getting pretty
close to being on the soil so you know
hopefully that’ll be within a month
just randomly or something
that is job lists and parts ordering
lists each clipboard represents a car
there basically lists are try and ignore
and not do anything about
Source :

Mk1 Escort Rebuild – Retropower Gordon Murray Episode 12


In this episode we get a look at the rolling shell complete with engine and gearbox


Here’s Episode 12:








Transcript :

until you actually build these things
and try it you don’t foresee always the
potential stumbling blocks
it’s been a little bit longer than we
anticipated before getting to in this
episode christmas has come between so I
hope everybody’s got a good Christmas
I’ve got a stinking cold so if I sniffle
and sneeze my way through this then I
apologize but big change we’re in a
completely different room this is the
assembly workshop now obviously last
time we were looking through the show
was in the paint booth so it’s been
moved through to here and a massive
change obviously as we’ve got engine
gearbox the cars rolling and we’re kind
of now moving on to working on all the
sort of engineering jobs that we didn’t
do during the dry build because they
weren’t necessary to actually do there’s
kind of reasoning for the delay in
bringing this episode actually it’s just
the way the timings worked out on
everything we got the dummy struts from
Nitron essentially based on our just
steel mock-ups they built what they
hoped would be the final strut bodies
but didn’t put any kind of coating on
them they were just in bare steel got
them over to us and we did a mock-up
build with those and there was actually
a problem with the front ones so they
had to have those back do a revision on
the front ones and then get us to check
those out before we then sent them off
for coating and build them up and gassed
them up and basically get the final
struts and by the time we got those here
we’d kind of missed their window of
opportunity for the guy behind the
camera Jason to come and be able to do
the filming and we just we’re gonna get
it done before Christmas so we hoped
we’d get it out for Christmas but wasn’t
gonna happen so here we are January and
at least on the plus side we’re a long
long way into the build on the car now
some of the things we’ve been working on
in the engine bay in fact what we’re
actually working on now is these
fabricated tanks that sit at the back
corners of the engine bay and I think we
talked about this before when we were
doing the dry build we were making
provision for where they were going to
go and we had in our heads how they were
going to be so at the moment we’re in
the process of turning that kind of
vision into a reality so we’ve done
fabricated other mininum tanks which
will have kind of leveled tops on both
of them the way we wanted to mount them
we were trying to make it so there was
no visible fasteners so we’ve got the
unions that come out of the bottom of
the tank that feed in this case the
brake fluid to the brake and touch
master cylinders and in that case the
screen wash through the bulkhead they
actually create the mounting point for
half of the tank and then we’ve got a
threaded boss that we’ve we’ve machined
and then welded to the bottom of the
tank which kind of forms the third
Mountain Mountain point and the idea
there is that when they’re in situ they
kind of look like almost like they’re
slightly floating there and there’s no
visible bolts there’s no flange that’s
bolted down or anything like that so
what you’ll see is effectively like that
tank is now it just kind of sits in
there I mean at the moment we’re
essentially kind of tackling jobs that
are bespoke bits of engineering there’s
so many parts where we can just put our
it together you know like the doors for
instance it’s just a standard build and
put the winder mechanisms and the
channels etc in the glass but we know we
can do that quickly so it’s trying to
get through all the bespoke stuff now so
where there’s where there’s CNC
machining to do and that sort of thing
we can get those processes happening in
the background while we crack on with
the more basic build work so for
instance one example of that is the
bonnet release we’ve always loved the
fact that the early cars have the push
button in the grille to release the
bonnet it’s just it’s so simple and
effective gets rid of the need for a
cable yeah you can get into the engine
bay you know so there’s a security thing
which I guess is the reason they have
cable releases originally but ultimately
who’s gonna what you’ve opened the
bonnet what are you gonna do steal the
engine it’s a bit ridiculous so you know
we love the simplicity of that but the
original button looks a bit clunky and I
kind of prefer the look of the grille
without the bonnet release so we thought
we’d try and create the best of both
worlds and we’ve actually machined a new
push-button for the bonnet release that
it’s an exact replica of the profile of
one of the grille slaps
yeah I guess one of the obvious changes
standing here is that the last time we
did an episode although we had the
plaintiff Shelley engine wasn’t even
back yet cause were for building this
still I would guess this arrived
probably the week after we add the last
episode but yeah I mean it looks amazing
now seeing it all here together with
it’s got that carbon airbox with the
carbon trumpets and then the plaque
that’s on the top of it you know it’s
it’s nice to you know we when we had it
all for mock-up it was obviously a bit
of a scruffy block and it you know you
never really see the finished thing it’s
in it all here and in place it looks it
looks a bit special and it’s it’s just
nice seeing everything start to come
you can explain all you want to somebody
else but it’s not until you actually get
it in there that I think people fully
appreciate what’s been in your head this
whole time then you can sort of and
visit how it’s going to look but when it
actually starts to come together that’s
when it’s sort of all all the hard work
starts to pay off and you get that kind
of rewarding feeling once we add the
engine here we wanted to get it on the
subframe because the whole lot goes up
from underneath you literally put the
engine on to its mounts on the front
subframe and then just raise the whole
lot up under the car and drop the shell
over it and bolted in but we wanted to
be sure there were there were a few
parts on the whole assembly which are
going to be very difficult to access
once it’s in so we we wanted to sort of
tick off all the all the jobs that we
wanted to do while we still had access
the heater plumbing pipes was one of
those jobs so there’s there’s there’s
like a water manifold on the back of the
head which feeds water round and up and
the radiator but it also has the outlets
which recirculate a water via the heater
when the heat is on or and they also it
also bypasses the thermostat to some
degree when the engines in its warm up
phase basically it has a recirculation
from the back of the head back to the
thermostat it’s very difficult to get to
that automatically afterwards so we
thought we’ve made made another minion
pipe that runs down the side of the
block and curves around the back to join
up with that water outlet on the back of
the head there and that’s bracketed on
to the side of the block with an
Arminian bracket so we formed that pipe
and the bracket and then have those
anodized to protect them from any sort
of corrosion and we’ll be doing the same
actually with the tanks up here because
that kind of bare aluminium finish gets
a bit of furring over time
even if you poly fit up so it is we’re
going to get those clear anodized so
they’ll have a nice silver finish to
them and they won’t deteriorate over
time and then obviously getting the
engine and gearbox together that’s
another fairly obvious point the engine
comes without flywheel or clutch so we
just get it as the bearer as the basic
engine so I spoke to Dave at retro Ford
we’ve had some clutches done via him in
the past and I know he’s done this exact
combination before so I spoke to him and
kind of agreed what would be the best
spec for a car that’s going to be a
reasonable amount of power so at least
nobody searched but it needs to be Road
drivable we’ve basically got a
traditional sprung type organic friction
plate but with a heavily operated billet
pressure plates over it onto a billet
flywheel ttv actually made the flywheel
and did a nice job of that so we could
got that ttv flywheel and all those
parts here got that light on the gear
box that we mocked up with it was
actually a used one we just bought that
from a mx-5 breakers to mark everything
up but then the final one that’s in the
car now is a brand new and we just got a
new a new gearbox from Mazda and then
the other custom part really on the
gearbox is the stick itself which if you
remember from the mock-up build we had a
really cramped back stick on it for
Gordon to try and get the position in he
kind of made notes on what position he
wanted it versus our mock-up
the big stumbling block there was that a
mock-up one didn’t have any of the rear
reverse detent you know the blocker
basically that stops you being able to
select reverse without pushing the stick
down and when we came to do the final
one it was one of those jobs that just
turned out to be vastly more complicated
than you would expect in that the
original sticks got a rubber isolator in
it which just dampens down violent
vibrations in the stick the problem was
when we made the crank stick on top of
that rubber
later suddenly with a big leverage ratio
you can twist the the rubber bush in the
isolator by an enormous amount which you
wouldn’t which didn’t seem very apparent
when it was just a straight stick and it
just made this shift feel horrible when
you went across the Crossgate the the
stick would then twist by kind of an
inch or so at each end of the Crossgate
so we did actually have to do a a
reasonable amount of reengineering of
that mechanism to create a sleeve that
went over and became that sliding
mechanism for reverse blocking and
actually replaced all of that rubber
isolator section but we’ve got that
pushed down to reverse mechanism now
without the twisting of the torsion of
the rubber isolator so yeah that was a
good couple of days work on just a gift
which is where these things always I
hope you know you see people always talk
about the time that goes into these
projects and you know talk about what it
must be costing a lot of money and yeah
sometimes the strangest of jobs turn
into you know huge amount of work it’s
probably to say two days of work in a
gifting which just seems bonkers but
until you actually build these things
and try it you don’t foresee always the
potential stumbling block
so yes a little likes noise going on
next in the unit next door which I can’t
do a lot about while we were waiting for
the struts we had all sorts of other
processes going on so the black you see
here those components are generally
steel and they’ve been blasted hot zinc
metal sprayed and then powder coated
we’ve probably talked about this before
but the hotlink metal spray is basically
like a sacrificial protection corrosion
protection so even if this power to coat
gets chipped or damaged in any way you
still won’t see any corrosion to the
steel itself the diff cover which is
billet aluminium that’s been anodized
and then the diff which was just a
scrapyard diff from a Sierra that’s a
brand new different Quaife they’ve built
that with one of their automatic talk
biasing dips in it it’s got a three
point six to one final drive ratio these
are obviously the damper reservoirs for
the nitrile struts they’re just cable
tied up at the minute but they’re going
to be mounted we’re just having some
mounts for those CNC machine we’ve drawn
them up on CAD and they’ll mount the
reservoirs on these diagonals here and
here and they’d like a billet clubs and
kind of clamps onto there and then clamp
it onto the body of the reservoir you
can just see the bottom of the struts
poking out down here that’s the black on
there is that Xylon coating we talked
about the xylem coating you can see the
brakes we’ve got the Sierra calipers on
there when we did all the mock-up build
for this we actually machine now a
minyan bushes effectively so when we
digged everything for the welding
everything was literally mounted
completely rigidly there was no bushes
in there they’ve obviously now been
replaced with polyurethane bushes so
every link has got a bush on one end and
a rose joint on the other and these are
really high spec aurora rose joints
there was a comment made I think on
either on the Facebook page or on
YouTube about the ROS joints and whether
they’ll be susceptible to to wear and
with them being open to the elements do
we put the rubber boots on them and
actually it’s a conscious decision not
to because every instance we’ve had when
we’ve had rubber boots around these
we’ve found that the river has
they’re actually getting water and grit
and muck inside the rubber boots and
then it has a detrimental effect effect
it actually holds water and grit around
and join so it can’t get washed away
when you wash the car or just overall
use so we leave them exposed and yeah
ventually they will wear and probably
more quickly than a rubber Bush would
but realistically you’re going to get a
good few thousand miles of use out of
car before you get any perceivable where
it’s actually quite a good thing to
demonstrate in a minute is the toe
adjustment and a few people sort of
looking at the pictures and things of
these wishbones and wondering why this
appears to be rows joints in here and
there and it’s because effectively we’ve
got an a arm onto one side of the hub
carrier but the other side because we
want it adjustable it’s mounted to the
first pass of the eye arm if that makes
sense so this joint here doesn’t move
this way relative to this it always
stays fixed and move that whole assembly
moves as a fixed piece on these two
bushes here and here but you can vary
the length of this which gives you your
toe adjustment so you can vary a little
which a reverse thread on one end so as
you can see probably when I do that you
see them in the wheel moving in and out
so that is actually Instituto adjustment
so when you want to adjust the toe on
the car all you’ve got to do is crack
those lock nuts loose turn that and
tighten the lock nuts back up camber
adjustment is via the bolt here which
has got the little puck which we’ve
talked about in quite a lot in the past
that will complete the back end almost
entirely once we bolted these reservoirs
on we’ve got the brake plumbing to run
and that’s basically the back end done
although something has stopped I do
that’s almost worse because then there’s
people watch this video there’s going to
be continuity between who and then there
we go yeah it’s all good the prop shaft
our stews are linked to the medley of
noise now so if the prop shaft which we
have now just sent the drawing a way to
have that made it’s a two-piece prop
we’ve put my ups on the fuel already for
the center bearing which will sit here
to the first section of the problem goes
from the gearbox to the center bearing
and then there’s a second section from
the center bearing and back to the
differential where yes I think that’s
pretty much covered everything on the
rear and I’ll just show you the front
what’s going on there
so yeah subframe much the same treatment
is all the rear so I made all of the
steel components the lower arms the
actual subframe itself the compression
struts they were all sent away to be
blasted a zinc metal sprayed and powder
coated the steering rack that was
already a recon like fresh built rack
but the paint that they use is kind of
just like aerosol you can virtually blow
it off so we we stripped the rack back
down painted that with a like a really
tough polyurethane paint and put up
rebuilt that again and also likewise the
track rods themselves which is often a
thing it’s kind of overlooked they tend
to just have a bare steel finish but it
does deteriorate quickly so we painted
those with that polyurethane paint as
well get a good view of the struts again
from the front here the damper
reservoirs again they just cable tied up
out the way at the minute but whereas
with the back we’re having some billet
mounts made for those whereas the back
ones kind of like a double tube clamp
that clamps them onto a tube at the
front it’s like a it’s basically a
billet piece with some threaded holes in
that we’re going to be bolted up against
the back of the these kind of reinforces
that sit each side of the strut so the
reservoir I’ll be on the back of that
packed back power where we have already
talked about the front suspension in
massive detail before other than the
fact that it’s basically an
off-the-shelf package but what we
probably haven’t dwelled on is the fact
that it is completely different to
standard mark what about to escort from
it’s a fairly standard thing to do on
these cars but this compression strap
here is very different to the standard
layout normally there’s an anti-roll bar
it comes around the front and attach it
to the lower arm and that’s that is
actually what provides the fore-and-aft
location of the lower arm but of course
an anti-roll bar by its very nature has
to flex it’s one wheel will go up when
it will take the along with it but it
needs to allow some degree of flex
between the two so effectively it’s a
bendable rod
so a standard you’re relying on a
flexible rod to
to locate the fore-and-aft movement of
the wheel which of course means under
heavy braking the wheels push a long way
back and you end up with massive changes
in steering angle as you brake so this
set it’s a pretty standard setup on kind
of motorsport escorts where you change
the answer roll bar so it’s no longer
doing that before and after location and
that strut takes all the load so under
heavy braking all the loads are being
fed straight down that’s truck there
which is not going to flex at all so you
you look wheels are absolutely solidly
located when you brake that’s pretty
much covered it to be honest huge
amounts talk about it from I guess we’re
trying to move forward with all of the
engine related systems so the cooling
system the oil system the fuel system so
the parts are being made for the dry
sump tank once they’re machined we’re
going to do the fabrication work on that
tank that will complete that job then we
can get the oil lines in we’re also
having the oil filter mountain machined
which sits on the side of the engine
here mounts the oil filter things like
the screen wash set up making the tanks
for that then we’re going to be doing
the washer jet setup and as I said
before about the domino effect of jobs
that’ll open up a load of things so
we’ll be able to put all the heat
everything that goes behind the dash can
go in after that’s done so we can put
the wiper motor in we can put the heater
box in we can put the instruments in we
can start doing the wiring it goes
behind the dash it’s focusing on that
kind of domino effect of jobs and
working out which ones need to be done
first to make sure they open up a lot of
other jobs
I haven’t sort of looked at the exact
hours that are in it and broken that
down into how many hours per week but we
must be in the ballpark of having a
person working on it
continuously for that entire year I
would say and that will carry on till
the end so that kind of illustrates
pretty well the number of hours that are
involved you know people will sometimes
say the progress should be faster but I
know myself that if I was building this
myself at home and I had these workshop
facilities I would have to not have a
job and be working on this guy non-stop
for like a year to 18 months or whatever
it’s going to take to achieve this kind
of progress because we have been working
on it continuously it’s not like we’ve
done a bit on it then just put it to one
side and sat down for a bit so really
that kind of really does a list rate the
amount of work that goes into it
sometimes it’s hard to resist the urge
to just put a few bits on like the
bumpers really even though you don’t
really have to do it just because it
seems to transform it so much and there
are biggie which we’ve not got to yet
it’s always the glass it’s kind of hard
to define or explain how much of a
transformation that seems to make from
going from having no dice to having
glass always seems to make the car
change it from being a shelter Bay a car
and particularly is it neat ins up the
when you used to seeing the kind of a
metal flanges where the windows are and
they’re obviously a little bit rough and
ready where the spot Wells and things
are and they’re suddenly you’ve got a
black seal around there which just
really defines that the line in the
window is much more cleanly which yeah
big big transformation but yeah I guess
the the first massive transformation is
getting it to the stage you see it now
where it’s actually on its wheels with
its mechanicals in and then yeah I think
I think the next sort of two
transformations are for me that the big
cosmetic ones are getting the glass in
so then all of a sudden the outside of
the car looks complete and then getting
interior in so all of a sudden the
inside of the car looks completely and
the final kind of reveal at that point
is when we’re used to seeing it sort of
dusty and working all the time and we
get the Detailers in to do the final
buffing ceramic coating and detailing of
everything inside and out and you go and
see it cleaned up to that level and you
suddenly like wow yeah that looks
Source :

Mk1 Escort Rebuild – Retropower Gordon Murray Episode 11


In this episode we get a look at the painted shell and the Retropower guys visit Nitron factory to see how the custom struts are progressing.  Some serious work has gone into the paint process, from a 2 pack acrylic base they progressively knocked back the finish with 1500 grit wet & dry, through to 3000 grit & mop cut and polish down to 3000 grit paste.  Rumour has it it will be followed up with a ceramic coating in a later episode.


Here’s Episode 11:








Transcript :

now it’s got paint on it feels like
another step forward now we’ve just got
to do they’re not scratching the paint
without further ado the painted shell
last time gums was literally walking
into the booth to spray the final coat
of paint which takes not very long
you know you literally talk in you know
two or three hours to completely do the
final exterior paint work on the car
after hundreds of hours of prep work and
we’ve sprayed it with just just a two
pack acrylic solid color it’s for Lerman
white which is the original twin cam
white color we’ve kind of gone for the
the two pack solid color rather than a
basing clear but you know you can get
two packs so it like so so kind of glass
flat but it still doesn’t have that kind
of miles deep brand-new car look about
it which we kind of wanted to avoid you
wants to paint it hardened off or best
part of a week we do the wet sanding and
polishing on it which is what takes it
from a gun finish where there’s a level
of orange peel there talked about this
last time to being completely flat and
nuts start with stiff blocks with 1500
grit some did wet
gradually go down finer so I’ll usually
then move to a 2,000 grit then we’ll use
3000 grit disks on a DA still wet if the
initial kind of hard blocking is just to
just to clip down that orange peel and
literally trim the tops off they’ll use
a book nerd art guide coat on a light
color like this until you can’t see any
guide coat left and then the progressive
final grades are basically to get the
something marks out from that initial
1500 grit and once you’ve got down to
3,000 in this case then we can go in
with the compound which is just a
basically an abrasive paste on a what
they call a mop on an electric machine
we’ve used system from fir Acula called
it’s actually a new one that just
recently brought out called the g 360
super fast system we’ve actually brought
out to speed up the initial cutting
process so you can do it from 1500 grit
but in our case we still wanted to take
it to 3,000 just to be absolutely sure
that something marks
no show at all initial cut with that
superfast correctly and then we move
down to the final grades of curricular
sort of finishing with like a real
ultrafine finishing compound and that’s
kind of the state you see in here
all the inside paint work was done first
we painted with the panels off so that
the doors for instance of painted
there’s a complete unit inside an out as
long in one go same with the bite and
the boot lid they were painted inside
and out in one go and then everything
assembled together afterwards which just
means there’s no kind of hidden areas
where you can’t quite get a nice paint
finish engine bay was painted at the
same time as the whole of the exterior
of the car which is pretty high pressure
on the go I do in the paint because he’s
got a clamber in underneath with it
exactly how it is now and sort of
squatting what is you know a really tiny
engine bay and get paint work everywhere
you know under all these hidden bits
under the edges of here whilst squatting
down in here and not then getting his
own overalls printed into the bank is
just painting which is obviously wet so
you know this is like the painters
Worth’s nightmare doing in an engine bay
like this you know a lot of people just
lean over and spray em but you just
can’t get the angle on some of the bits
that you want to get up under here and I
Fund it here and there’s so many bits
you can’t get to and you can’t see
clearly unless you’re right in there so
yeah he was literally in the engine bay
doing all the engine bay paint work
which as you can see has turned out
pretty nice happy with that very happy
with that
the reason the Dynomax in there now and
dying about being a sort of sound
deadening and heat insulating product to
try and get refinement in i don’t know
we’re gonna get criticized for adding
weight back into the car but it was
always stipulated as being a regular
used car with some degree of refinement
so we’ve got a lot of dynamite in there
to try and keep the drumming and the
noise down on the road noise down and
keep a bit of heat insulation in there
as well now the reason it’s in there now
is because before we did the wet sanding
on the car we wanted to make sure we wax
injected all of the kind of cavities
inside so that if any of the water from
wet something got down in there it
didn’t cause any corrosion so and then
it’s if once you’ve done that you get
wax oil over everything it’s very
difficult to stick the Dynomax on when
we’ve got the gunner finish from the
paint we Dynamat it first
then we weren’t to inject everything
then we must get and do the wet
something in that order so that we’ve
protected it so the work the water
doesn’t go anywhere and cause any
corrosion that we don’t want but we’ve
also got the dynamite on before the wax
so it actually sticks properly yeah
we’ve done the behind the grill work and
actually we did the dash at the same
time and it’s just it looks nicer it’s
to be honest it’s an opinion thing
actually they were originally black now
in there and it’s so when you’ve got the
grill on there and you look through the
grill you don’t see the painted bits
behind you just see in dark darkness
through the grill I actually on some
cars we’ve done I’ve actually not done
that because I quite like the look at
the body through the grill on it it kind
of has a bit of a motor sporty look to
it to me on this one I don’t think that
looks suited the car it’s nice to have a
bit of contrast as well on a white car
you want to see some dark there so we’ve
done that more or less than the original
forward positions although the grille
sits right forward here and then the –
we’ve also done satin black because
there is areas all around the top and
the lower part of the dash which that
will be its final finish it’s got a
loaded part on the top but all of the
sort of peripheral part of it that satin
black paint is the final visible finish
on it and also there is going to be a
bit of black on the back there’s a
section kind of where there’s a suede
line that comes up each side at an angle
and runs across over the slots that
we’ve put in the rear panel which we are
going to be doing black but I wanted to
make sure we could stand well back from
the car when we were sort of marking out
and visualizing how that was going to
look because I don’t want to mask it in
the paint booth paint it in here and
then go now look how that looks so we
need to kind of visualize it we’ll
probably just do it in black tape to
start with and then look at it from
different angles and probably get
Gordon’s opinion on where that’s going
to be because that’s quite an important
change to the look of the back of the
car to try and narrow it sort of height
wise make the car look wider and
narrower so we need to roll up and try
that and took before we do that
eventually when we’ve finished the build
up on it we will do a final
mopping with a really ultra fine
compound and it will be ceramic coated
but chances are were scratching it
between now and it being done are always
there so we don’t want to count our
chickens and all that now and then have
to redo it if something if we scratch it
or damage it in the meantime which I’m
hoping we won’t but
it’s best not to take the risk so yes
gonna leave here we’re gonna wheel it
through into the assembly shop and we
get to start doing the what I think is
the fun bit of starting to bolt finished
engineering parts onto a shiny shell and
I’m not no knots actually over at nitron
today seeing how they’re getting on with
the suspension builds so we’re gonna
have a little look at that
hi Maya and you did not make hi good to
see you
you wanna come right yeah
this this is kind of where we do most of
the bike stuff so it’s got the bike
specific parts you know laid out here
then we’ve got things that are motorbike
mojo motorbike forks all the cartridge
internal parts and then there’s a small
machine shop in there which is the in in
shock room machine shop so we have to
keep that clean but it does allow us to
modify parts a small lathe cleaning tank
a vacuum tank
these are shocks that come back in for
rebuild so they get stored there because
they’re dirty would have to clean them
take them apart so we basically make
sure the dirt stays in this in this part
here so this is just our little broom
we’ll put a door in here eventually so
this is this is the size of nitrile mark
one yes isn’t it this is the first the
first shed was about this big what what
year was that well it would have been
1998 yeah April 1998 was when I actually
officially started the company so yeah
it’s been 20 years
so with one one I’m gonna say unique
thing about about what we make is that
we test everything yeah so the design of
our product means that once we’ve
assembled it before we put out the door
we have to calibrate it and it’s a it’s
a purposeful point of the design because
I want to know that the product is
matched yeah does meet the the graft
criteria rather than sizing how much
some aren’t you put it together and it
is what it is it can’t change you can’t
adjust it you can’t tweak it therefore
you’re stuck hoping that the performance
is correct
so this is a McPherson strut being
dynoed and we’re doing the compression
cycle and we run it through a series of
speed checks and we checked that the
valving will give us a good damping
result on the speed up and the speed
down inside the stroke so it’s very
important that you get both sides of the
stroke to be a reasonable mirror image
it’s possible to have it so that as it
speeds up it produces one damping result
yeah and as it slows down going through
the sustainer set of speeds you get a
different damping result and this is
known as hysteresis when looking very
there is an allowance of hysteresis
nobody’s ever proved that hysteresis has
a particularly negative effect on a car
but from a pure shock point of view it’s
always nice to get a shot that has a
balanced upstroke and down stroke so
that’s what Mark is doing now he’s
dialing it in and he’s changing the
valving settings now and he’ll be set in
the calibration points to meet the
criteria he’s looking for
sorry I’m being nosy
so we run a heat probe on the shock so
make sure it’s up to temperature as well
you got to make sure the tests are done
under the same criteria all these shocks
and they all do the same thing so these
two are struts and these two are shocks
and the difference is this is this is
the the product of your engineering is
that this shock is always structure so
this shock actually holds the wheel up
mm-hmm and you got four of these one on
each corner on your car yeah and they
are different front to back of them
correct yeah yeah so you’ve effectively
designed and specified what you want
really we’ve not done that work so
you’ve given us the requirement and we
have made this different one and we’ve
made this so this will bolt on to the
the aluminium up right on the jungle
perhaps steel its aluminium on the front
elements the iron on the back I mean
education and this bracket here which is
steel fabricator steel bolts onto the
upright part and then you have the tube
that is the shock absorber part and it’s
got a really thick rod here this is a
very strong high carbon steel rod and
that resists the bending where the wheel
stops are collapsing into the wheel arch
and then you’ve got your bearings on the
top which is the the top plate which has
rubber inside it as well to isolate some
of the noise and smaller vibrations that
you get through from from the strut
itself and the adjustments on this
particular strut we have rebound on the
top here which we can turn and then on
the reservoir we have two compression or
bump modes a very low speed mode and a
high speed mode and we can think about
these two modes as the low speed is
driver input and the high speed is
something that has
happened to the car that the driver
didn’t didn’t cause so you might think
perhaps driving over a curb the driver
didn’t actually do that to the chassis
the wheels you want them to move very
fast inside the car so if you take a
kerb at a racetrack the wheel needs to
move very quickly you don’t want the car
to be upset that’s a high speed movement
whereas putting on the power the car
will change attitude going through a
turn the car will change its attitude
there’s a lower speed movement and
they’re controlled with the low speed
knob so that’s the way we kind of think
about the high speed under low speed
this truck does the same thing that
looks entirely different so this is a
BMW m4 that the newer type of BMW but it
does exactly the same things it bolts to
the car through this large diameter here
it has the compression same compression
adjustments and same mechanism and has
the same type of rod the same structural
steel tube and it has a top plate here
which is very adjustable so we can
adjust the camber and the caster on the
top of the car using these adjusters so
we can sit the way the wheel sits in the
car when you turn the steering the
caster will affect the cab build up that
you get and the the performance so does
the same thing but just looks totally
very old ford item is there so you’ll
recognize those the ad Cortina yeah but
we’ve actually machined these out of
solid so that’s our own solid machined
part that’s interesting to know if
they’re racing Cortinas we build them
slightly differently which is why this
one has come back for a modification so
you can see here there’s a cylinder of
gas the gas that is put into the shocks
is nitrogen yeah
and the reason why we do that this is
heavy and I’m going to put it down the
reason why we put know the reason why I
put nitrogen into the shocks is that
once we’ve done all the bleeding process
and we vacuum the product out and we put
the oil in if we then give it’s a 10 bar
of pressure 10 atmospheres of pressure
any miniscule air bubbles that are left
in there will be crushed to a tenth of
its size also during operation if you
imagine the oil wants to froth up the
action of the pressure of the gas stops
any frothing going on so the oil can
really be thrashed to bits inside with
the piston and shims and it won’t aerate
or create any any gas bubbles inside the
shock so we use nitrogen as an inert gas
to do that
so the name Nitron has come directly
from nitrogen gas
hi-yah further further work that we’ve
been up to mechanically I’ve done a few
bits one of them was rear brakes we are
constrained by a 13-inch wheel because
we want to make the car look similar and
look sort of correct to the period the
idea was Gordon was keen to have it
looking more or less like a lotus
twin-cam escort so we want to use the 13
inch steel wheel and we need to use a
hand brake caliper we want disks on the
back we need a hand brake on the back I
really want to use one caliper to do the
job the best option we kind of concluded
was this which is the Ford the trusty
old Ford Sierra unit that everybody uses
and that you can buy new again that’s
been remade because everybody uses them
it quickly became obvious having done a
couple of little sketches that it wasn’t
going to fit inside a wheel with any
sort of off-the-shelf disc that we
initially looked into so we I started
having a look at ways we could modify it
into the wheel color and color look at
it as well for a fresh pair of eyes and
we did use that if we move the caliper
in we’ve got a chance if we used a
smaller disc so we’ve got a smaller disc
with a slightly shorter top hat which
moved the disc outboard a little bit
which gave us a better chance of the
various bits of caliper clearing the
various bits of up right at that
diameter we to move the caliper in we
needed a machine various things we’re
trying to keep the service part standard
and the service parts will be wheel
bearing brake the brake caliper claw the
disc the pads and the CV joints
yes yeah yeah we’re getting its now
we’ve now it’s got paint on it feels
like another step forward now we’ve just
got to do they’re not scratching the
paint bit yeah yeah no I’m looking
forward to seeing it really with all the
parts coming together it’s gonna happen
a little bit more rapidly than some of
our builds in that we obviously not
completely dry built but but almost
completely dry built the car and a lot
of the parts are just new
oh that’s coming from there that’s
coming from there there’s a lot of just
a collection of new parts that there’s
going to be brought in quite a lot of
which were already finalized so it
should be we should be able to make
pretty rapid progress on some of it it’s
not to say it’s going to be finished in
five minutes but we’ll be able to get it
coming together quite quickly and yeah I
think that’s that’s the stage I like to
see once once plumbing starts going in
around an engine and the engines in
there and it’s on all its wheels and it
suspensions all operating it suddenly
feels like you’re building a car not
just a collection of bits that are
supposed to bolt together so yeah now
I’m looking forward to that it’s
definitely definitely another milestone
yeah I think the bit I’m looking forward
to the most is it Gordon riffing off of
the road in it it’s a vehicle it’s doing
the traditional it see if he comes back
with a smile on his face nasty that’s it
that’s that that’s the bit that I’ll be
most excited about
Source :

Mk1 Escort Rebuild – Retropower Gordon Murray Episode 10


In this episode we get a look at some detailed paint prep on the newly modified Mk1 Escort shell.


Here’s Episode 10:








Transcript :

pretend about it send this out what
about this paint right what would you do
pull the handle up you ready
so it’s basically d-day in the sort of
production of the body shell for the
project gasps and Mark had been working
away on this for about the last month
since we blasted it and finished the
metalwork on it and it’s now ready
pretty much just to be set up in here
cleaned off and get its final coat of
paint in the last episode we blasted it
done the hot sink spray on the underside
of the car which is kind of a corrosion
protection system and we’ve given it a
coat of epoxy primer which I don’t know
if we talked about and that’s that’s
kind of the first step really is when
the when the shells freshly blasted it
gets surface corrosion really quickly
you know just the humidity in the air
and can start to turn it you know in a
matter of like hours so with the ink
sprayed on under underneath we then give
the whole thing a coat of epoxy primer
on the outside which is directly on the
metal and that kind of gives it its
proper foundation protection so you know
any work we do on the shell no matter
how long it’s left you know open to the
humidity in the air there’s we’re not
trapping any sort of surface corrosion
because we’ve immediately got that
coating of epoxy over it after blasting
so that was kind of the first step and
then from there we do the seam sealing
on the shell underside inside engine bay
and I think we looked at that last time
the guys were just starting that last
time and then sort of moving on from
that it’s the boat the initial fella
work which is just getting I mean on
this there were so many new panels there
was there was really not a huge amount
of for the work needed but there’s
always gonna be a bit when you’re trying
to get everything dead straight you know
when you look down the side of the car
trying to keep it all the reflections
looking perfect it’s always going to
need to be a small quantity you know
you’re talking less than a millimeter
depth but just to give you a material
there to block some and get everything
dead straight so its initial filler work
block sanding and then after that we put
a coat of poly ester over it which is
basically the same makeup as body filler
except it’s in a sprayable form and that
kind of gives you an all-over coating to
blocks and the importance of that really
is that when you’ve got a transition
between metal and filler no matter how
hard the block is you always find that
blocks more quickly so you tend to get a
slight variation in the surface between
the metal and the filler so if you give
the whole thing an overall coat of
polyester you then block something and
even material over the whole thing
so everything sums at the same rate so
it’ll get a coat of polyester over the
exterior guide coat over that and then
we start block sanding that down and
then kind of moving on towards the first
stages of sealing everything in because
at this at this point the filler and the
polyester they’re porous material so
they can retain moisture basically and
that’s that’s a real killer you often
see not very good paint jobs getting
micro blisters in and the reason for
that usually is that there’s moisture
being soaked into the lip and the porous
materials then that gets sealed in by
the final paint and as soon as it either
gets some freezing cold or very hot that
material expands that moisture expands
and starts sort of forcing bubbles out
from under the paint so it’s very
important to keep everything dry at this
first sort of stage towards sealing
everything in and making it water for
its effectively non-porous we start on
the underside and we use a urethane
coating is a product by Upolu called
Raptor which was originally used for
lining the back of pickup trucks and we
do the underside of the car in raptor
tinted the the final body color then we
do the inside all of the non visible
surfaces or anything that’s going to be
covered by trim panels carpet etc that’s
all done in rapture as well just because
it’s harder wearing than a typical
acrylic paint so it doesn’t you know
movements of a carpet or a trim panel
won’t wear through it very quickly
and at this stage one of the one of the
sort of awkward bits on a shell like
this is that the wings are welded on and
there’s quite a few bits you can’t get
to once they’re welded on basically up
inside under the inner wing there and
there’s a section and that’s why a lot
of these cast corroded and died fairly
early on in their life this because
there’s an area up there which didn’t
really have any coating on originally I
seem to get all the road spray and dirt
going up there it just sits up there and
corrodes away really badly so the sort
of order of events to try and avoid that
is that we did the Raptor on all we in a
wing area with the wings removed we then
set up the wings and wrap to the
underside of the front wings and then
while we were doing that we basically
masked off the areas that were going to
be welded then we did the final
alignment to the front wings and welded
them on the spot weld on the top as a
couple of big seams of the front at the
back as they would have been originally
and then once they welded in we then go
back under there clean up around where
all that sort of sort in any any scale
from the welding seam seal that and then
basically go in and just wrap to the
under front wing area again to rego over
any of the areas that were affected by
the welding and any bits that were still
left bare metal from welding that way if
we’re doing in that order it means
there’s no areas under there that
haven’t got paint or rapture or
protection of some sort on them so then
that’s that’s kind of the underbody all
of the inside completely watertight at
that point
ah come on let’s get this done I never
quiet we’ve been cool I’m in the face so
I still why do cats go that way another
gasps wow I get some stuff
we’re gonna start from that door again
why I ought to get some stuff to do
usually gonna follow me through would I
do that take again once we’ve got the
wings on obviously that meant we could
do all the absolute final alignment on
the panels do a basically a mock-up of
the doors bonnet boot lid and this is
with latches seals you know the bonnet
property latch boot latch don’t seal the
grill in so everything is absolutely in
its final position as it will be when
it’s a completely built car and then
that allows us to block sand across and
the shirts on the car basically where
they where the tunnel gaps are we block
some across them blocking that polyester
coat back so that the the sort of line
down the side of the car is absolutely
crisp you know you know you’re not
sending the door separate to the wing
and then fitting it in the finding
there’s a slight slight change in there
in the sort of how flush the two panels
are yeah and that way when you look down
the side of the car when it’s all
painted it’s just gonna be a perfect
flat you know reflection all the way
along the car and that’s quite important
and it’s amazing how much of a
difference things like the seals make
you know you can actually door without
the seal and it’ll sit in a totally
different position than when it when it
has got the seal in there and just
because different parts of the door are
more flexible obviously the upper frame
is more flexible than the lower part of
the door so you tend to find the force
of the seal or push that out more than
it pushes out at the bottom of the door
so getting it all kind of built up with
how it will be eventually is quite
important and things like having the
grill in there and the lights so we
could just be absolutely sure all the
alignment of everything was spot-on once
we sort of block that polyester coat
down blocking across all the foots we
take that down to 320 grit and then we
go on with what’s on it now which is an
epoxy primer again so that’s the second
layer of epoxy primer which which
completes the job of sealing all of the
porous substrate sins
the whole shelf is waterproof it’s got
the urethane underneath it’s got the
urethane inside and it’s got the epoxy
primer on the outside the initial thing
after we’ve done this epoxy coat we go
around and just scotch up and key up
where any remaining unsealed seams were
which was basically the visible seams
because all the kind of exterior visible
seams like in the engine bay down the
gutters that sort of thing you don’t
really want much material over the top
of the sealer anything that might crack
you know if you go over with the
polyester over the sealer the polyester
is not really flexible so you’ll find
it’ll crack quite easily so we only want
the final paint to be over that’s that
seam sealer so what we do is we key up
all of the areas where the seam sealer
is going to go seal those seams leave
that to cure and then do the final wet
sand which is fairly essential because
when you’re going down to the 800 grit
which is what this has been taken down
to before final paint with dry something
you always get like slight clogging of
the paper which just leaves these light
sanding marks in there so you’ve really
got a Sun dick wet to kind of keep the
paper clear and just keep keep it so it
is a hundred grit rather than a hundred
grit with big marks gouged into it from
a clogged up some paper and so we’re wet
son the whole lot 800 grit and then yeah
we’re basically then ready for the final
paint so the panels have been taken off
and they’ll be painted separately so we
can get really well into all the door
shuts and around the hinges and any
areas that would be shadowed basically
if we have the panels on and yeah so
galahs gonna come in here in a bit set
this up properly so it’s straight down
the booth and give it a final panel wipe
off and do the paint on this and then
once that’s baked it’ll come out of here
we’ll put the tunnels in I think that’s
being a simple car we’ll probably get
all the panels in in one go got two
doors bonnet boot scuttle and that’s
about it so yeah it should should be one
booth of panels to do and then once once
all about what’s been baked and cured
for a few days we’ll then move on to the
process of wet sanding the final paint
finish and buffing out which kind of
takes it from a from the gun finish
which is kind of how you would expect if
you’ve went out and bought a new car
that’s the kind of finishing yeah it’s
like a slight level orange
and then we’ll work some mats until it’s
absolutely dead flat and buff it up so
it’s kind of like glass flat which is
not something you’ll only ever find that
basically on a car that’s had that
process done you look at any any new car
there’s a level of orange peel there and
the only cars that don’t buy things like
Lamborghini Rolls Royce they do manually
wet sand and buff their cars at the end
of this at the end of the production and
it’s really the only way to get that
absolutely flat the floor that’s
finished so that’ll be the final step
but yeah as of probably few minutes from
now Gaza is gonna be getting the getting
these overalls on stepping in here and
hopefully doing a good job of putting
some paint on this thing
so handle each other forget this sir
Dorko no more woah woah woah would go
past sure already send this out I’ve
heard about this paint right what we’re
gonna do is pull the handle up spinning
turn you ready
how do so now what panel what time yeah
just don’t feel like it’s going very
good I don’t pay I think it’s good it’s
just them two messed it up it’s rebus
stood and then straight after that it
was seen on anjing spray hot zinc
sprayer and then straight literally
straight after that clean it now no
I don’t get paid enough for this and
then after that it was epoxy primer used
to sit in and stop it rusting again well
on the outside anyway
and then what yeah yeah
come on down cows off cow got really
quiet we get racket to student noisy
twenty days yeah okay basically yes
since last time twenty days yeah yeah
depends how good it is I mean everything
this is all more or less brand new brand
new panels so it’s just kind of filling
lot because they fill in the joins and
stuff where we joined other stuff on and
told you and everything up and
straightening if they’re now and then
just loads of sanding make sure
everything is flat and straight because
there’s still some original parts here
Bob seaman under carbon panels yeah they
weren’t that great as always because
they’ve just race car panels they’re
just ripley but we don’t want that one
it’s a lot metal i with slight though
the Chevette rally car that’s all
fiberglass boat looks metal done it so
that’s what we wanted
yeah it’s not the blue alpha they’re
they’re all carbon panels on that but
you want it to look like it’s metal
whilst we’ve been doing all this with
we’ve got various processes in action
behind the scenes which are preparing
some of the bits we’ve been building for
the car so for instance all the subframe
parts that all the bits we made for the
rear suspension the wishbones and the
whole diff cradle carrier and the front
suspension parts like the crossmember
and the front arms
they’ve all been sent off to be blasted
and hot as ink sprayed the same process
we did underneath here and powder coated
a massive process we tend to do on all
kind of major underbody components that
are steel and just because it’s so tough
and it and even with the benefit with
those ink spreads even if you scratch
that powder coat off or it gets stone
chipped or whatever it still protects it
so it just you know it lasts incredibly
well and then we’ve sent off various
things to various companies so we’ve got
the engine has gone back to Cosworth and
so they can now do the final build to
the final spec don’t we struts that
we’ve built I’ve gone to Nitron they’re
going to be basically building struts
based on the dummy ones that we provided
we gave them the kind of open and closed
length information and positions of
where we’re going to put the damper
reservoirs and the lengths of the hoses
and they’re going to take it from there
and hopefully next episode we might get
to go over to know my phone and have a
look at them making those bits which
would be nice
because it’s not it’s not right it’s
nothing we’re not gonna do it just makes
everybody’s life harder if it’s not
right in the first place so but then you
can’t really blame anyone because if
you’re looking at the same thing for so
long you’re blind to what’s in front of
you usually so if you go to Stu and say
see what you think
oh sorry I didn’t mean you know you can
you sort it out between yourselves it’s
not a problem you know it’s not anyone’s
fault necessarily if you you’ve been
looking at but Stu’s I’ve done a how
long’s do spent on this during the
matter where there’s a long time so
little things you’re gonna go unnoticed
but I’ll try and keep an eye on the
process when he’s doing it and then
after so you know point little bits out
whatever and it might not unnoticed or
you know because you’re looking at the
bigger picture sort of thing that just
we know we get a bit of pressure because
what’s the first thing you actually see
in the car yeah so you could have really
fancy engine really fancy running gear
fancy seats but the first thing or gets
the attention is the bodywork
everybody likes to say always taking
ages it’s going really well actually
I mean the metal work it was probably
more involved than we originally
anticipated the prep for paint that’s
gone perfectly I would say it’s gone as
flawless three years we could expect
which probably means it’s gonna go
terribly wrong when we put the paint on
yeah I mean it’s I think we’ve been
working on it about a month and there’s
I don’t know the exact number of hours
on this offhand but generally to do a
prep and paint from a bare metal shell
to a finished painted shell we’d
normally Bank on there being somewhere
between sort of 250 and 350 hours
involved and this is definitely within
kind of expectation on that so yeah it’s
going well and we’ll see how the rebuild
phase goes that’s when I I’m more and
more kind of responsible for how
progress goes you know in these sort of
metal but if I use go ahead and that’s
kind of responsible for a lot of the
engineering so you know he’ll be working
on it and that will dictate some of the
progress they’re gazon mark have been
you know looking after all the prep and
paint on it so that’s kind of dictated
by them and then it will go through for
rebuild when I I’m more in charge of it
which point probably slow down to a
snail’s pace but I’m hoping we can pull
the cat out of the bag on it so I
remember reading a couple of comments
talking about the sort of speed of
progress and I think a lot of people
neglect to take into account
we’re probably building at least 20 cars
at any one time so this is one of the
central 20 or more projects that we’re
building to a similar standard you know
similar procedure and there is ten of us
here so you know there’s if you split
the down split down the projects per
person that’s quite a lot of work huh so
yeah I mean we do this was going pretty
well generally we anticipate a full
build of this nature to be probably
around 18 months maybe two years if it’s
a more complicated project and I would
say we’re dead on track for that yeah
pretty high yeah I can’t wait to it
painted it’s gonna be it’s gonna be
amazing I’m just I kind of like slightly
nervous levels in case something goes
terribly wrong but it’s kind of the
fracking paint process it’s an O it’s an
interesting one because there’s all of
the work is in
you know putting on the paint people
consider some people think a paint job
is putting the paint on while putting
the paint on it’s probably about three
hours work but it’s all everything
that’s built up to this point which is
hundreds of hours that is the paint job
as an overall thing but yeah I can’t
wait to see it in that final white and
kind of at that point you start to
envision getting all the shiny bits
bolted on and seeing it take shape
properly and kind of step one is getting
the suspension on getting the wheels on
and seeing it rolling and painted and
that’s just such a motivational boost at
that point I can’t wait
Source :

Mk1 Escort Rebuild – Retropower Gordon Murray Episode 9


In this episode the Retropower guys complete the metalwork, strip the car back down to a shell, zinc spray ahead of the paint prep. We get a good look at the escort on a rotisserie getting the seams sealed.

The inner wing has been modified to make space for a dry sump tank. Typically these go in the boot. Retropower have designed the cooler tank from scratch, we get to see the CAD drawings & some serious design skills.

The engine bay and bulkhead has been modified for custom loom with plug in connectors so the engine wiring loom can be unplugged from the bulkhead – no rubber grommets.


Here’s Episode 9:








Transcript :

“the imminent excitement is the fact that

Source :

Mk1 Escort Rebuild – Retropower Gordon Murray Episode 8


In this episode the Retropower guys take a look at the car at the end of the dry build stage. Gordon gets a good look around the work that’s been done, checks out the driving position, new suspension and under body mods.


Here’s Episode 8:








Transcript :

Source :

Mk1 Escort Rebuild – Retropower Gordon Murray Episode 7


In this episode the Retropower guys take a look at the progress on the metalwork and explain the dry build process. The Escort comes off the jig and onto a rotisserie so we get a good look at the work done on the underside.

The instrument binnacle has been moved to suit Gordon’s preferred driving position. Lots of work…..

Here’s Episode 7:








Transcript :

I suppose we’ve been talking a lot about
dry build and does if everybody knows
exactly what I’m on about and I suppose
we should go into a bit more detail on
that because it’s a very very important
part of the process we do of building a
it’s been a little bit longer since we
did the last episode than the normal
because we’ve been so busy it’s just
been ridiculous we’ve got like four cars
reaching completion we’ve had shows and
we’ve had people on holiday it’s just
been absolutely manic so it’s been a
little longer and also annoyingly
because I’ve been so busy and stressed
with other things I’ve not been able to
grab the camera as much as I would like
to so we’ve kind of missed a lot of the
huns I’m actually on the car which is
annoying because we’ve actually done a
hell of a lot of hands-on action on the
car most obvious thing is the fact that
it’s not on the jig anymore we are late
on the jig for all the kind of geometry
related stuff all the stuff where we
were taking a lot of structure out of
the car and that’s all done now and the
curse kind of structurally sound all the
accurate stuff still and so it’s back
off the jig so we could get it onto this
rotisserie roll it over and access all
the bits that we couldn’t really access
conveniently with it on the jig so a lot
of that is just grinding back welds
welding bits that we couldn’t finish the
welds on with it on the jig or we didn’t
want to because it’s incredibly
difficult welding upside down well I’m
sure all these like pipeline well that
well there’s a laugh at me and say oh I
say you say it’s easy but it’s it’s a
pain welding upside down so we can get
it back on now and finish all the welds
we couldn’t get to with it on the G
yeah I guess this is an interesting way
to see it because we’ve not been able to
see it at this angle for a long while so
yeah we’ve been going over just cleaning
up all the welds and things that we
couldn’t really get to when it was the
other way up and there’s various little
sort of detailed jobs are still what I
do on the metalwork underneath but it’s
nice to see it like this and actually
it’s quite a good demonstration of how
much metal works been changed on it
because really the chassis legs are
original and the back part of the boot
floor and the you know wings and that’s
it kind of looking forward to getting
this back in the blast broom and
blasting it all doing that Thermal zinc
spray process that we’re going to do on
the underside at which point it starts
to really look like a new shell
how’s it going I’m looking forward now
the end of it would be nice – it’s gonna
be nice bottom some mechanical bits to
it yes so all the major changes we’ve
done are all back here but I will just
mention the – which because we were
talking about this last time we’ve done
the kind of main part of the – and the
other thing we’ve done since then is the
actual instrument binnacle we didn’t
want to use the original one for a
number of reasons
I mean hey we’re going to use some
different instruments and warning lights
and by the time you’ve cut all of that
mid out to do anything with that there’s
barely any point using any of the
original and also we’re lowering your
position of it because because he’s lots
obscure a lower steering wheel position
with me on he’s pretty tall guy with the
the instruments in the original position
the wheel would have completely obscured
him so the plan has always been to drop
those instruments slightly so it just
made sense to fabricate an instrument
binnacle in steel so we’ve kind of done
the lower sort of transitional piece as
part of it and the the actual panel at
the instruments mount into and then the
top parts just got to return lit because
we’ll be making a molded soft pad for
the top here so similar to the original
just just different shapes and that’s
what we’ve got
that’ll come along and that will come
over the top of here and just meet up
with that that edge piece there and then
this steel at the bottom we’ll carry on
the line that we end up here the sort of
details done on this that the angle was
something we paid attention to so that
angle and that angle both matched
perfectly and they’re both designed to
be pointing straight towards the
driver’s eyes and in the actual back of
this we’ve done sort of clearance holes
for where the LEDs are gonna go there’s
going to be a series of warning lights
three there one there
that’s for the back of the LEDs to pass
through there’ll be a trim panel on here
in anodized aluminium which is what’s
going to have this sort of engraved
lettering to say what the LEDs do but
then the actual instrument holes we’ve
made these the same size as the
instrument so that we can use the
instrument through the bezel panel
through that back panel and then use the
actual mounting bracket of the
instrument to hold the fascia panel in
and we’ve done the same at this these
these holes are actually the exact size
for the gauges so that when we’ve made
the anodized aluminium panel rather than
having it bolted on with any visible
fixings we can actually use the
instrument retainers to sandwich both
panels together so there’s no visible
fixings that’s the plan there which
pretty much completes all of that and
the biggie at the back is all of this
structure here which we were just
cutting out last time so kind of
starting with the structural tube we’ve
put a tube across here and that was
planned sort of when we were talking
about the design interior design on the
structure of the car for a number of
reasons I it gives us a nice stiff sort
of cross brace on the car there on the
shelf at the back there also gives us a
really nice curved transition between
the parcel shelf and the bulkhead and
they’re just a neat way of doing that
and thirdly gives us mounting points for
this to the harnesses because we talked
before about him alight he’s to have
normal seat belts on but wanting the
provision for harnesses so we’ve done
three points here so it even got double
options there we can either have the
shoulder straps mounted on separate
points or we can have both go into a
single point depending on preference and
these will just have blanking plugs in
them when they’re not in use and the
trim panel that will go around here will
mean that they’re completely out of
sight anyway they’ll just be a whole
wish so they sit just slightly less than
flush with the hole we’ve obviously made
all of these panels the parcel shelf
the separate panel on both sides there
the bulkhead panel with a little infill
each side which ties it up to the inner
arch to which I think we were just
making that stuff remember that we’ve
done those or not so these these tubes
have been made to allow us a good amount
of clearance on the inside of the wheel
the central panel there we’ve just a
slight sort of folded cross into it just
to stop it drumming and it’s the same
reason really on the parcel shelf those
those lead beads that we’ve rolled into
there just stiffen the panel up and stop
resonating so much over bump stopping
vibrating and just stiffen the whole lot
of this one here we didn’t want to do
the beads because we still wanted to
leave open the opportunity of trimming
straight onto that rather than having a
separate panel on there and we thought
actually if we just did that we’ve still
got the option of literally upholstering
straight onto there and without having
this the sort of lines of the bead
showing through I think we were just
rolling this in last time so that’s done
and then the only other change that’s
visible from here is this section we’ve
made here because we were planning the
exhaust routing and noted that we were
going to need a bit more clearance
basically well where the exhaust comes
up to kick over the rear subframe
assembly so we’ve done an enlarged sort
of area or a floor pan there to give us
some exhaust clearance the other thing
you can see is these access hatches
which go down into the access the top of
the turret so we can get to the fixings
that hold the top mounts in for the rear
struts and also the dumping of just a
knobs are going to be on top of the
struts so those hatches are used to
access the damper adjust the knobs and
then we’re going to make some little top
caps that go over there basically and
bolt on so that just then becomes a flat
shelf but you can remote you can remove
the caps to adjust the dampers or remove
the struts so that’s most of what you
can see from here and then if we just
turn it round I have a look in the boots
and you’ll be able to see that metalwork
from the other side
from this side you can see sort of more
of the structure and the more critical
suspension related structure that we’ve
been working on predominantly the
turrets here and that was one of the
critical reasons again why it needed to
be on a jig so we could we could
actually make a sub assembly which
located the truck top mounts really
accurately in relationship to the jig
which is obviously accurate in relation
to all the other suspension mounting
points so we’ve basically made a jig to
hold the strut tops and then fabricated
the turrets themselves around that
they’re then tied into that cross tube
that we looked at at the front there so
the whole lot kind of is just a really
really stiff structure you’ve got the
turrets going up and braced into that
cross tube within the parcel shelf and
the bulkhead tying it all together as
well in our opinion this is just going
to be an incredibly sort of rigid and
stiff location for the rear suspension
there the top here you can see where
we’ve we’ve added the sort of section
that raises up to the parcel shelf which
is that cavity that we saw from the top
where you’ve got the adjuster knobs and
the top mounts for the suspension there
and so that’s kind of what encloses in
that area so it’s not just opening to
the boot and I again was in case of
trying to stiffen it all up and then
it’s quite notably the entire floor area
here on this sort of over axle area has
been completely refurbished from scratch
in the main to the floor section where
again we’ve rolled some ribs in to
stiffen it off and just make it look a
bit prettier I think this section here
was actually the same press tool that
Stu made for the bulkhead panel inside
but it just makes a nice a nice job of
it and the reason for this is multiple
again a it gives us clearance for the
rear subframe B it gives us more
clearance over here for the exhaust
underneath C it gives us a flat plinth
to rest the fuel tank on because the
fuel tank is going to be located here
keeping the weight nice and far forwards
and then lastly that the the sort of
lowered section in the middle that air
is going to allow clear and spread top
section in the middle of the fuel tank
which is where the inlet and outlet on
the fuel tank will be
which basically gives you your anti
surge so there’s kind of a captive pot
in the bottom of the tank with only a
small opening into it which means all
your cornering forces braking
accelerating the fuel can’t really exit
that pot so you avoid if you just had
the tank without that in corner hard
with a half a tank of fuel all the fuel
goes to one side and if you let the tank
is the other side you get fuel
starvation that’s kind of incorporating
provision for that at this stage and
then you can see that the arch tubes the
earth was the section we were working on
last time they were all finished and
welded and I think I still have even
more welds to do on these and then we’ve
since done the outer which we’ve put
quite a lot of work into those to get
this cake really far out and close to
the quarter panel all the way to its
full height to give us maximum wheel
clearance so when when the wheels
normally you’ve got the coarse panel
here and the inner arch kind of cuts in
much much further away from the quarter
which means when the wheel troubles look
really high there’s a good chance of it
hitting so what we’ve done we actually
used another outer arch repair panel and
use that as the basis for the outer part
of the art still banned then fabricated
all the rest of it but that means we’ve
got the first part of it it’s almost the
two panels together for quite a long way
up so we’ve just got as much wheel
clearance as we can possibly get in
there I think that’s pretty much in
terms of the changes we’re doing here I
say that as if it was a small amount of
work it was a fairly significant amount
the last time I realised we’d missed
quite a not particularly important but a
very obvious bit of metal work in that
we’ve put these slots in the rear
balance and which I never even mentioned
last time and this was something that
Gordon was quite keen on the detail he
wanted to add something to the to the
rear of the car that was just a little
different a little something
non-standard just to put his own stamp
on it and we did various drawings and
ended up with almost totally standard
standard lights standard bumper exhaust
on this side because that was going to
be the convenient way of reaching it and
because the side the manifold is but
then putting these slots in and then
we’re going to do there’s like a shape
in the in the pressing of the back panel
here which almost has like a diffuser
paint that black in that section which
will sort of narrow the back of the car
visually which is kind of what he was
one said he wanted to sort of make it
look a little little wider and lower so
but kind of leading on from that we’ve
were going to be fitting the bumpers
because we’ve changed so much metalwork
on the car we’re at that stage now where
we really need to bolt things on the
lights the bumpers because there’s
chances of these holes and mounting
parts being in exactly the right place
on the pattern panels is often
remarkably slim so I’m currently in the
process of ordering a vast amount of
parts to actually initially build onto
the car while it’s bare metal just to
make sure all the mounting holes and
things are in the right place and
everything fits so we could probably go
through and have a quick look at all the
parts that I’m ordering now and the kind
of job list I’ve formulated for the dry
build and so you get a bit more of an
insight into that
I suppose we’ve been talking a lot about
dry build and those if everybody knows
exactly what I’m on about and I suppose
we should go into a bit more detail on
that because it’s a very very important
part of the process we do are building a
car and the reason really for doing it
is so that when we get a painted shell
and we’re building the car we don’t find
sort of problems unforeseen problems
that mean we have to drill cuts grind
any part of the car and sort of
custom-built car it’s amazing how many
stumbling blocks you come across and
just even the standard stuff so you know
for instance we’ve replaced lots of
panels on the car place the front panel
the rear panel there’s a prime example
all the lights and grille or mount into
the front panel the rear lights mounted
to the rear panel they’ve been changed
and although their replacement panels
you’ve know full well with these things
that stuff is not going to just bolt
straight on and I don’t want to find
after its painted that I’ve got these
headlight bolts don’t quite line I’m
going to drill a hole through this front
panel next to the one where it should
have been and you’ve got a random hole
and then a drilled hole with no paint
around it so everything that might
affect metalwork we build onto the car
while it’s still bare metal before we
paint it consequently there’s quite a
lot of thinking on into that and I mean
here’s an example
each of these jobs will probably break
down into another one but this is a
rough job list I’ve done for the stuff
we want to do in the dry build which is
quite a few jobs and as I say each of
those is likely to them result in a few
more this things like fitting door
handles well we’ve done door skins on it
they are escort door skins and so
supposedly the door handles will just
bolt in but will they really and I don’t
want to find that out when it’s painted
so fitting the door handles fitting the
quarter window frames again we’ve rigged
in the doors there’s a gap that that
a-frame has to fit into between the
outer skin and the inner frame and if
we’ve somehow got that not quite right
I’m gonna find out later that we’ve got
a match something to get the door at the
window framing so we want to find that
out now if it doesn’t fit and that just
goes on you know seals the heater unit
and also this is a biggie making
all the wiring and plumbing so not only
making holes in bulkhead for where
wiring or plumbing passes through but
also drilling the holes that will put
threaded inserts in which will actually
attach the clips that mount the wiring
the clips that mount the plumbing so
when the shells painted we just put the
ribbon in with a ribbon tool and then
we’re ready to go so that River insert
is going into a painted hole so there’s
there’s no bare metal in well we’re not
drilling the painted shell and then
exposing bare steel which could rust
later and you know you can see some of
the parts we’ve got laid out here so for
example headlights we definitely want to
try them make sure the holes to mount
these are in the right place these are
just the sister beauty of working on an
escort so much stuff new it’s amazing
like some of the cars we work on it’s
just an endless trauma of trying to find
new old stock parts or refurbishing old
these are sybbie ones you can get
cheaper ones but we thought on a build
like this we might as well go for the
banner made stuff so city lights we’ll
try them these are the little lip seals
that go on the outside of the door where
the window sits again you can buy these
brand new even though they’re a molded
specifically molded seal for the
Martinez core not just a universal
section so we want to make sure that
that fits perfectly and they at between
the outer skin and the window is nice so
it sits nicely against that seal window
seals from really screen seals I’m
hoping the windows will fit if they
don’t we’ve done something majorly wrong
with it but it’s always worth trying
these things just to be on the safe side
the bumpers we’ve got and we’ve got all
new mounting hardware
these are Harrington stainless steel
bumpers kind of decided seeing as there
were an off-the-shelf stainless item
made sense because you haven’t got any
of that worry of chipping the crime or
the chrome flaking and starting to
corrode or usually what happens on the
crime ones is the backs not been
finished as nicely as the front and you
end up with them rusting through from
the back so they were just an
off-the-shelf thing and we’ve got all
new brackets and hardware to mount them
which again will will mock all that up
now because all the bits at these mounts
are that have been changed around the
wings are replaced and that’s where the
bolts go through on the end ultimately
with the dry build is we end up with a
car with engine gearbox axle all the
suspension bolted in on its wheels and
tires literally sitting on the floor
like a finished car with seats in with
the steering wheel in with the
instruments in so that Gordon can sit in
it and say you know yes I’m happy with
that and we can assess that everything
fits correctly that when when it’s a
painted share all the parts are just
going to bolt on and I know this never
actually happens there will be something
we’ve overlooked there always is
something but the idea is that
everything will just bolt on and we’ll
have a beautiful painted shell with all
the parts and no ragging of paint
it’s easy to overlook certain things you
think you’ve ordered all the parties
when you go to fit something and realize
oh yeah we need a certain screw for this
or a certain talent for this and then
you have to go away and order that and
that takes time to arrive so that
there’s a little bit of that but now you
shouldn’t it shouldn’t take that long
we’re kind of in the latter stages of
the metalworker now at the minute we’re
just tidying up welds on the underside
which we couldn’t get it when the car
was on the jig we’ve got to do the rear
chassis legs where they we’ve cut them
out where the turrets go through and
then we’re making basically a box
section that continues the chassis leg
around the turret that’s the only
remaining kind of key bit of metalwork
then we’re going to be pushing ahead
with the dry build doing any metal work
related to that and then at that point
which I’m hoping will be probably two to
three weeks from now I think Gordon’s
Gordon coming Gordon’s coming on the
27th and it’s the seventh today so that
tells you exactly we’ve got we’ve got
three weeks basically to get it totally
dry built and then at that point we’ll
strip it down and hopefully it’ll be
ready to take through to start the prep
for paint the one thing we’ve probably
not mentioned is we’re going to do all
the seam welding on the shelf because we
want to and this was something Gordon
was very particular about is making sure
this the shells as stiff as possible so
also we’ve done all the all the
essential metalwork we’ll get the car on
the rotisserie and go around every seam
and that will be TIG brazing stitches
along all of the seams to basically
stiffen up every seam on the car and
then once that’s done we’ll blast the
shell again which will just completely
strip all of the kind of outer coatings
it won’t we won’t be stricken back all
the epoxy primer that we’ve carefully
put inside all the hidden areas but all
the outer stuff and all the welding
scale it’s just a great way to clean
everything up and all the surface rust
and then we do a thermal sprayed zinc
process on the underside of the car
which where we’ve literally got an oxy
propane gun with a solid wire of zinc
fed into it and it sprays molten zinc
onto the underside of the shell and
that’s kind of our ultimate corrosion
protection system and once we’ve done
that then it goes through
to the bodyshop guys and they’ll start
doing the seam sealing and basically
doing all the groundwork to work towards
painting it so it’s becoming pretty
exciting time now my kind of number one
excitement is seeing it on its wheels
really looking forward to Gordon coming
over and seeing it and no doubt that’ll
be a bit of banter back and forth and we
probably have to do a few little tweaks
and changes but once we’re all happy
with it and then it’s yeah over to the
body shop guys and watching it transform
entertain which is quite exciting
how’s things that no wait I meant some
promotion stuff well I suppose paint yes
I think supplies the paint I was down at
Brook way there a couple years ago
building a more a built in a mini Oh
cheering hey Sharon hey you know China
yeah there is a bit more musical yeah
Source :

Mk1 Escort Rebuild – Retropower Gordon Murray Episode 6


In this episode the Retropower guys take a look at the progress on the bodywork. Most of the outer panels are on and complete. The custom dash metalwork is in place and some extra cross braces and seat mounts have been welded in to give a bespoke driving position requested by Gordon. The pedals have been modified to allow the room for a clutch foot rest and the steering column swapped out for an Opel Mantra unit that has a crumple zone.  We also get a look at the start of work on the rear suspension. A turret kit is going in, however they are converting to landrover freelander struts and coil over suspension with engineered camber adjustors – not sure how I feel about that, but it looks interesting.

Here’s Episode 6:








Transcript :

” in fact it’s pretty obvious if you had a

quick walk around the car you know all
we ask panel work is essentially on
there now so it started to look totally
like a car rather than just a sort of
half torn apart a relic now
a lot of progress has happened on the
car and since we last gonna filmed it
because obviously the last episode we
went to see some of the engine work
being done at Cosworth so you know
everybody’s been screaming and shouting
saying we need to see more work on the
car work on the cars but I think it was
kind of important to show the planning
stages and something we’ve said from the
start was that we’d like to show not
just the work we’re doing on the car but
if we’re getting other people to build
stuff it’d be nice to show those bits
being done as well so that was kind of
why the Cosworth MS it was thrown in
there a bit consequently because it’s
been a long while since we were last
actually looking at work on the car
we’ve done quite a lot on it in fact
it’s pretty obvious if you had a quick
walk around the car you know all the
outer panel work is essentially on there
now so it’s starting to look totally
like a car rather than just a sort of
half torn apart relic now I think when
we last filmed we were talking about the
metalwork at the front we were doing the
inner front panel regarding the radiator
and the oil cooler installation and I
think Gordon came over and was doing a
trial sitting so since then we start at
the front we have we finished all the
metal work for the oil cooler
arrangement we did a load of
modifications on the slam panel
regarding the radiator so we’ve kind of
just made this or meet up much more
pleasingly with the where the radiator
states we’ve got the the outer front
panel on that was just a standard
replacement panel which was pretty good
actually the fit of that was reasonably
pleasing there’s a few bits to tweak as
there often is but not too bad and then
coinciding really nicely with that the
carbon bonnet arrived which when you’re
doing sort of composite panels on a car
you obviously can’t change the shape of
the panel once it’s once it’s done it’s
done you can’t really go adding width or
length to it so you really need to start
with the carbon bits and then knowing
all the steel parts to that because it’s
a lot easier to change the shape of the
steel bits yeah with the bonnet one
thing we did up to do because most of
these are being marketed to the
they don’t put any of the hardware in
for the bonnet caches so you because
they’re normally gonna be on pins so
that was the sort of major change
related to the bonnet we’re adding
there’s a there’s a metal plate which
we’ve put in under here which is almost
goes all the way across there and it’s
got nuts welded to it there there and
there which for the main kind of striker
pin there and the safety caps bolts on
there and we could have slot in the back
here which we try to do it as small as
possible so the thing was kind of
threaded in really okay and then bonded
in the inside there we’ve done a swap
that’s coming just about the width of my
hand here that whole metal plate was
threaded in through and then and then
clumped through and bonded onto the
other side the underside of that hollow
section there so we’ve kind of got the
hardware there to mount all the original
catches it did come obviously with the
hinge mounts and yeah the quality of the
bonnets pretty good to be honest we’ve
been happy with that and the clearances
as it was when we mocked up the steel
one they’re still it’s tight on the cam
cover but there is room
so we got the carbon bonnet on there and
then it was a case of getting the
replacement wings on and getting those
all aligned which as usual with pattern
parts normally was a complete pain these
wings were out of shape in a lot of
areas particularly down the back so we
did a lot of work reshaping the rear
edge of the wing I think we ended up
actually unfolding the fold on the back
and adding about five mils on the back
and refolding it and also adjusting the
profile along here to match the bonnet
more pleasing now I mean there’s still a
little bit of work to be done on the
wings but they’re they’re pretty much
there and there was some work done
around this edge here as well these this
sort of intersection as a welded piece
on here that meets up with the front
panel it just wasn’t in the right place
so we had to run spot weld those modify
them and re spot weld them in the right
place so it all met up nicely and but we
got there in the end we’re getting there
there’s still a little bit of work just
to get the lines a bit crisper and get
them the meet up to the valance better
they just I think they just screwed on
at the minute so they’re not they’ve not
been welded on for the final time but
we’re pretty happy with how the gaps are
all sitting now I’ve got the gaps and a
scuttle nice the gaps to the wings are
okay so that’s that’s reasonably
pleasing once we got kind of the wings
and the front valance and all of that
lot set that then allowed us to move on
to doing the doors and there was a bit
of an about-turn
on the doors if you remember in the
earlier episodes we talked about doing
the carbon Boonton bonnet and then doing
our mininum skins on the doors that was
the plan then we started getting sort of
extending lead time shall we say on the
on the other minion door skins which I
have made to order and in the meantime I
also saw in person some aluminium skins
that were done for a Cortina and I had
concerns over the the fact that they’re
not particularly straight shall we say I
mean that they were pretty good but you
know we want when we do the paint and
finish on this we want it to be
absolutely crack on you know like
perfect ripple free when you look along
the lines and we
worried that with the aluminium skins
being not absolutely dead straight we’d
end up having to put that much filler or
you know build primer on them that
they’d probably end up weighing more
than steel skins you know and for a huge
amount of cost and hassle involved in
the meantime you know it started to
become not a very obvious choice
potentially we were going to end up with
extra cost extra hassle you know the
potential corrosion issues with our
mininum as steel as well all for
something which might actually be
heavier in the end so kind of gone
around the houses with that we actually
decided to just go with the steel ones
you know the final kind of decider on
that being that the steel skins these
ones are really really good quality you
know they are absolutely perfectly
performed because because they’re
pressed with a decent pressed tool
rather than being handmade
so we stripped the old skins off the
door so it was just the just the
framework in there we had to do some
repair work on the hinges because they
were completely worn out and make some
new pins for them
we epoxy primed the inside of these new
outer skins and also at the same time as
the skins were removed we epoxy priming
the part of the inner framework that you
can’t get to once the skins attached so
all of the inner hidden parts of the
doors are all protected and then fitted
the new skin which is pretty much the
case for putting it over the frame
having an adhesive around there and then
how am i forming the sort of lip round
onto the frame it’s fairly clearly
standard stuff for somebody who’s used
to doing Dorsky repairs
once we got the door the doors really
skinned and we’re totally happy with the
gaps around them we turned our attention
to the interior we talked previously
about the interior design revisions and
obviously we had a fairly lengthy chat
with Gordon about what we were going to
do on the interior the reason for having
that discussion with Gordon about the
interior design changes at this stage
was because there’s going to be
metalwork involved in that you know a
lot of people have been sort of saying
why are you doing into so much detail
now and it’s it’s important to do that
because a lot of it affects what we’re
doing now we don’t want to be kind of
painting the shell and then finally
we’ve got to cut bits back out of it
again to make changes so you’ll probably
see straightaway there’s quite a
substantial change to the look of the
dashboard from that point down we’ve
completely scratch-made that that – and
we’ve the sort of main feature is there
is the instrument panel that sits here
with the auxiliary gauges and then
there’s going to be the heater controls
and the headlight control underneath
there and we’ve actually changed the
shape of the entire lower part of the
dash for a number of reasons we’ve
deepened this whole section here and
made it slightly more vertical and the
reason for making that deeper is kind of
threefold the first reason is having
this instrument panel here with the
shallower dash would mean a much deeper
drop down section which would start to
look cosmetically out of proportion with
the rest the second reason is you
probably remember Gordon had a seating
position that was way back you know
almost in the back of the car and the
steering wheel a lot lower you know the
steering wheel was probably four inches
on the column here at this point was
about three inches lower than standard I
think so we from a cosmetic point of
view it was going to be difficult to
make a column much lower and not just
look like a sort of hanging down
appendage on the bottom of the dash and
also from a strength point of view
difficult to make a mounting for it’s
that far below anything struct
so it made sense to drop the whole –
down and have a structural part of it
that we could that we could mount the
column to so it’s strong but also kind
of cosmetically you don’t have the
column hanging down miles below the dash
and thirdly the revised heater box
arrangement that we’re going to put in
will sit behind the dash and this extra
depth gives us a little bit more sort of
area to hide that away behind the dash
so there’s a few reasons for making
those changes the way we’ve done this
also to incorporate a lot of strength is
there’s a tube behind here 38 millon is
a substantial MIT’s like roll cage
tubing here which runs all the way
across follows that line down and back
up the other side and curves in to both
pillars and actually attach this to the
pillars and forms a pretty structural
part of the car so we’ve added a lot of
strength to the shell at that point the
steering columns and mounted directly to
that tube so it’s absolutely you know
solidly mounted to the shell and it also
gave us quite an easy way of achieving a
nice radius on the bottom here all of
the sheetmetal work is obviously just
handmade panel work and then this this
kind of bead that runs around the
perimeter here was designed to sort of
replicate the original shape of the
original pressing there and we just made
a tool for our Paul max sort of
reciprocating hammer so we could we
could form that bead all the way around
that section we’ve then added the glint
holes each side for the extra vents
we’re going to add that these are going
to be these out events here which just
the center two are actually going to
stay in the original position and then
we’re just having another two on each
side so yeah pretty major changes on the
their income is now not an escort
steering column it’s actually the
steering column from an Opel Manta which
we’ve kind of chosen because
dimensionally it was almost perfect and
it has a collapsible section in it so
it’s a little nicer from a safety point
of view if you have a big accident
rather than the solid bar coming up and
spearing you in the head it in theory it
collapses which which would be
preferable we’re still sort of decisions
still out on the switchgear we kind of
haven’t touched on that yet we’ve talked
about between us about doing our own
design of switch gear for it which would
be nice I mean the Manta does actually
have quite a nice simple single stalk
that does a lot of functions but there’s
a question mark there it seems we’re
going to this extent extent we’re kind
of thinking do we really want to use in
1980s indicator stalk even though it’s
infinitely better than the escort one
which just falls apart every time you
use it yeah I don’t know we’ll have to
make a decision on that one still and
yeah the pedals looking down in that
direction was another thing obviously
when God was here he was talking about
wanting him a bit further over so he had
room for a clutch rest so we very
angular the pedals to bring them further
to the right so there’s kind of space
for a foot between the clutch and the
tunnel now immediately after Gordon’s
trial fitting he he had the seat just
mounted on some real temporary kind of
flimsy brackets we’ve now made up the
final brackets for that now so the seat
mounts have done and then we have to do
this this crossmember section here which
kind of adds a structural section for
where the gearbox crossmember bolts in
underneath there was originally a
crossmember in the escort a different