Mk1 Escort Rebuild – Retropower Gordon Murray Episode 10


In this episode we get a look at some detailed paint prep on the newly modified Mk1 Escort shell.


Here’s Episode 10:








Transcript :

pretend about it send this out what
about this paint right what would you do
pull the handle up you ready
so it’s basically d-day in the sort of
production of the body shell for the
project gasps and Mark had been working
away on this for about the last month
since we blasted it and finished the
metalwork on it and it’s now ready
pretty much just to be set up in here
cleaned off and get its final coat of
paint in the last episode we blasted it
done the hot sink spray on the underside
of the car which is kind of a corrosion
protection system and we’ve given it a
coat of epoxy primer which I don’t know
if we talked about and that’s that’s
kind of the first step really is when
the when the shells freshly blasted it
gets surface corrosion really quickly
you know just the humidity in the air
and can start to turn it you know in a
matter of like hours so with the ink
sprayed on under underneath we then give
the whole thing a coat of epoxy primer
on the outside which is directly on the
metal and that kind of gives it its
proper foundation protection so you know
any work we do on the shell no matter
how long it’s left you know open to the
humidity in the air there’s we’re not
trapping any sort of surface corrosion
because we’ve immediately got that
coating of epoxy over it after blasting
so that was kind of the first step and
then from there we do the seam sealing
on the shell underside inside engine bay
and I think we looked at that last time
the guys were just starting that last
time and then sort of moving on from
that it’s the boat the initial fella
work which is just getting I mean on
this there were so many new panels there
was there was really not a huge amount
of for the work needed but there’s
always gonna be a bit when you’re trying
to get everything dead straight you know
when you look down the side of the car
trying to keep it all the reflections
looking perfect it’s always going to
need to be a small quantity you know
you’re talking less than a millimeter
depth but just to give you a material
there to block some and get everything
dead straight so its initial filler work
block sanding and then after that we put
a coat of poly ester over it which is
basically the same makeup as body filler
except it’s in a sprayable form and that
kind of gives you an all-over coating to
blocks and the importance of that really
is that when you’ve got a transition
between metal and filler no matter how
hard the block is you always find that
blocks more quickly so you tend to get a
slight variation in the surface between
the metal and the filler so if you give
the whole thing an overall coat of
polyester you then block something and
even material over the whole thing
so everything sums at the same rate so
it’ll get a coat of polyester over the
exterior guide coat over that and then
we start block sanding that down and
then kind of moving on towards the first
stages of sealing everything in because
at this at this point the filler and the
polyester they’re porous material so
they can retain moisture basically and
that’s that’s a real killer you often
see not very good paint jobs getting
micro blisters in and the reason for
that usually is that there’s moisture
being soaked into the lip and the porous
materials then that gets sealed in by
the final paint and as soon as it either
gets some freezing cold or very hot that
material expands that moisture expands
and starts sort of forcing bubbles out
from under the paint so it’s very
important to keep everything dry at this
first sort of stage towards sealing
everything in and making it water for
its effectively non-porous we start on
the underside and we use a urethane
coating is a product by Upolu called
Raptor which was originally used for
lining the back of pickup trucks and we
do the underside of the car in raptor
tinted the the final body color then we
do the inside all of the non visible
surfaces or anything that’s going to be
covered by trim panels carpet etc that’s
all done in rapture as well just because
it’s harder wearing than a typical
acrylic paint so it doesn’t you know
movements of a carpet or a trim panel
won’t wear through it very quickly
and at this stage one of the one of the
sort of awkward bits on a shell like
this is that the wings are welded on and
there’s quite a few bits you can’t get
to once they’re welded on basically up
inside under the inner wing there and
there’s a section and that’s why a lot
of these cast corroded and died fairly
early on in their life this because
there’s an area up there which didn’t
really have any coating on originally I
seem to get all the road spray and dirt
going up there it just sits up there and
corrodes away really badly so the sort
of order of events to try and avoid that
is that we did the Raptor on all we in a
wing area with the wings removed we then
set up the wings and wrap to the
underside of the front wings and then
while we were doing that we basically
masked off the areas that were going to
be welded then we did the final
alignment to the front wings and welded
them on the spot weld on the top as a
couple of big seams of the front at the
back as they would have been originally
and then once they welded in we then go
back under there clean up around where
all that sort of sort in any any scale
from the welding seam seal that and then
basically go in and just wrap to the
under front wing area again to rego over
any of the areas that were affected by
the welding and any bits that were still
left bare metal from welding that way if
we’re doing in that order it means
there’s no areas under there that
haven’t got paint or rapture or
protection of some sort on them so then
that’s that’s kind of the underbody all
of the inside completely watertight at
that point
ah come on let’s get this done I never
quiet we’ve been cool I’m in the face so
I still why do cats go that way another
gasps wow I get some stuff
we’re gonna start from that door again
why I ought to get some stuff to do
usually gonna follow me through would I
do that take again once we’ve got the
wings on obviously that meant we could
do all the absolute final alignment on
the panels do a basically a mock-up of
the doors bonnet boot lid and this is
with latches seals you know the bonnet
property latch boot latch don’t seal the
grill in so everything is absolutely in
its final position as it will be when
it’s a completely built car and then
that allows us to block sand across and
the shirts on the car basically where
they where the tunnel gaps are we block
some across them blocking that polyester
coat back so that the the sort of line
down the side of the car is absolutely
crisp you know you know you’re not
sending the door separate to the wing
and then fitting it in the finding
there’s a slight slight change in there
in the sort of how flush the two panels
are yeah and that way when you look down
the side of the car when it’s all
painted it’s just gonna be a perfect
flat you know reflection all the way
along the car and that’s quite important
and it’s amazing how much of a
difference things like the seals make
you know you can actually door without
the seal and it’ll sit in a totally
different position than when it when it
has got the seal in there and just
because different parts of the door are
more flexible obviously the upper frame
is more flexible than the lower part of
the door so you tend to find the force
of the seal or push that out more than
it pushes out at the bottom of the door
so getting it all kind of built up with
how it will be eventually is quite
important and things like having the
grill in there and the lights so we
could just be absolutely sure all the
alignment of everything was spot-on once
we sort of block that polyester coat
down blocking across all the foots we
take that down to 320 grit and then we
go on with what’s on it now which is an
epoxy primer again so that’s the second
layer of epoxy primer which which
completes the job of sealing all of the
porous substrate sins
the whole shelf is waterproof it’s got
the urethane underneath it’s got the
urethane inside and it’s got the epoxy
primer on the outside the initial thing
after we’ve done this epoxy coat we go
around and just scotch up and key up
where any remaining unsealed seams were
which was basically the visible seams
because all the kind of exterior visible
seams like in the engine bay down the
gutters that sort of thing you don’t
really want much material over the top
of the sealer anything that might crack
you know if you go over with the
polyester over the sealer the polyester
is not really flexible so you’ll find
it’ll crack quite easily so we only want
the final paint to be over that’s that
seam sealer so what we do is we key up
all of the areas where the seam sealer
is going to go seal those seams leave
that to cure and then do the final wet
sand which is fairly essential because
when you’re going down to the 800 grit
which is what this has been taken down
to before final paint with dry something
you always get like slight clogging of
the paper which just leaves these light
sanding marks in there so you’ve really
got a Sun dick wet to kind of keep the
paper clear and just keep keep it so it
is a hundred grit rather than a hundred
grit with big marks gouged into it from
a clogged up some paper and so we’re wet
son the whole lot 800 grit and then yeah
we’re basically then ready for the final
paint so the panels have been taken off
and they’ll be painted separately so we
can get really well into all the door
shuts and around the hinges and any
areas that would be shadowed basically
if we have the panels on and yeah so
galahs gonna come in here in a bit set
this up properly so it’s straight down
the booth and give it a final panel wipe
off and do the paint on this and then
once that’s baked it’ll come out of here
we’ll put the tunnels in I think that’s
being a simple car we’ll probably get
all the panels in in one go got two
doors bonnet boot scuttle and that’s
about it so yeah it should should be one
booth of panels to do and then once once
all about what’s been baked and cured
for a few days we’ll then move on to the
process of wet sanding the final paint
finish and buffing out which kind of
takes it from a from the gun finish
which is kind of how you would expect if
you’ve went out and bought a new car
that’s the kind of finishing yeah it’s
like a slight level orange
and then we’ll work some mats until it’s
absolutely dead flat and buff it up so
it’s kind of like glass flat which is
not something you’ll only ever find that
basically on a car that’s had that
process done you look at any any new car
there’s a level of orange peel there and
the only cars that don’t buy things like
Lamborghini Rolls Royce they do manually
wet sand and buff their cars at the end
of this at the end of the production and
it’s really the only way to get that
absolutely flat the floor that’s
finished so that’ll be the final step
but yeah as of probably few minutes from
now Gaza is gonna be getting the getting
these overalls on stepping in here and
hopefully doing a good job of putting
some paint on this thing
so handle each other forget this sir
Dorko no more woah woah woah would go
past sure already send this out I’ve
heard about this paint right what we’re
gonna do is pull the handle up spinning
turn you ready
how do so now what panel what time yeah
just don’t feel like it’s going very
good I don’t pay I think it’s good it’s
just them two messed it up it’s rebus
stood and then straight after that it
was seen on anjing spray hot zinc
sprayer and then straight literally
straight after that clean it now no
I don’t get paid enough for this and
then after that it was epoxy primer used
to sit in and stop it rusting again well
on the outside anyway
and then what yeah yeah
come on down cows off cow got really
quiet we get racket to student noisy
twenty days yeah okay basically yes
since last time twenty days yeah yeah
depends how good it is I mean everything
this is all more or less brand new brand
new panels so it’s just kind of filling
lot because they fill in the joins and
stuff where we joined other stuff on and
told you and everything up and
straightening if they’re now and then
just loads of sanding make sure
everything is flat and straight because
there’s still some original parts here
Bob seaman under carbon panels yeah they
weren’t that great as always because
they’ve just race car panels they’re
just ripley but we don’t want that one
it’s a lot metal i with slight though
the Chevette rally car that’s all
fiberglass boat looks metal done it so
that’s what we wanted
yeah it’s not the blue alpha they’re
they’re all carbon panels on that but
you want it to look like it’s metal
whilst we’ve been doing all this with
we’ve got various processes in action
behind the scenes which are preparing
some of the bits we’ve been building for
the car so for instance all the subframe
parts that all the bits we made for the
rear suspension the wishbones and the
whole diff cradle carrier and the front
suspension parts like the crossmember
and the front arms
they’ve all been sent off to be blasted
and hot as ink sprayed the same process
we did underneath here and powder coated
a massive process we tend to do on all
kind of major underbody components that
are steel and just because it’s so tough
and it and even with the benefit with
those ink spreads even if you scratch
that powder coat off or it gets stone
chipped or whatever it still protects it
so it just you know it lasts incredibly
well and then we’ve sent off various
things to various companies so we’ve got
the engine has gone back to Cosworth and
so they can now do the final build to
the final spec don’t we struts that
we’ve built I’ve gone to Nitron they’re
going to be basically building struts
based on the dummy ones that we provided
we gave them the kind of open and closed
length information and positions of
where we’re going to put the damper
reservoirs and the lengths of the hoses
and they’re going to take it from there
and hopefully next episode we might get
to go over to know my phone and have a
look at them making those bits which
would be nice
because it’s not it’s not right it’s
nothing we’re not gonna do it just makes
everybody’s life harder if it’s not
right in the first place so but then you
can’t really blame anyone because if
you’re looking at the same thing for so
long you’re blind to what’s in front of
you usually so if you go to Stu and say
see what you think
oh sorry I didn’t mean you know you can
you sort it out between yourselves it’s
not a problem you know it’s not anyone’s
fault necessarily if you you’ve been
looking at but Stu’s I’ve done a how
long’s do spent on this during the
matter where there’s a long time so
little things you’re gonna go unnoticed
but I’ll try and keep an eye on the
process when he’s doing it and then
after so you know point little bits out
whatever and it might not unnoticed or
you know because you’re looking at the
bigger picture sort of thing that just
we know we get a bit of pressure because
what’s the first thing you actually see
in the car yeah so you could have really
fancy engine really fancy running gear
fancy seats but the first thing or gets
the attention is the bodywork
everybody likes to say always taking
ages it’s going really well actually
I mean the metal work it was probably
more involved than we originally
anticipated the prep for paint that’s
gone perfectly I would say it’s gone as
flawless three years we could expect
which probably means it’s gonna go
terribly wrong when we put the paint on
yeah I mean it’s I think we’ve been
working on it about a month and there’s
I don’t know the exact number of hours
on this offhand but generally to do a
prep and paint from a bare metal shell
to a finished painted shell we’d
normally Bank on there being somewhere
between sort of 250 and 350 hours
involved and this is definitely within
kind of expectation on that so yeah it’s
going well and we’ll see how the rebuild
phase goes that’s when I I’m more and
more kind of responsible for how
progress goes you know in these sort of
metal but if I use go ahead and that’s
kind of responsible for a lot of the
engineering so you know he’ll be working
on it and that will dictate some of the
progress they’re gazon mark have been
you know looking after all the prep and
paint on it so that’s kind of dictated
by them and then it will go through for
rebuild when I I’m more in charge of it
which point probably slow down to a
snail’s pace but I’m hoping we can pull
the cat out of the bag on it so I
remember reading a couple of comments
talking about the sort of speed of
progress and I think a lot of people
neglect to take into account
we’re probably building at least 20 cars
at any one time so this is one of the
central 20 or more projects that we’re
building to a similar standard you know
similar procedure and there is ten of us
here so you know there’s if you split
the down split down the projects per
person that’s quite a lot of work huh so
yeah I mean we do this was going pretty
well generally we anticipate a full
build of this nature to be probably
around 18 months maybe two years if it’s
a more complicated project and I would
say we’re dead on track for that yeah
pretty high yeah I can’t wait to it
painted it’s gonna be it’s gonna be
amazing I’m just I kind of like slightly
nervous levels in case something goes
terribly wrong but it’s kind of the
fracking paint process it’s an O it’s an
interesting one because there’s all of
the work is in
you know putting on the paint people
consider some people think a paint job
is putting the paint on while putting
the paint on it’s probably about three
hours work but it’s all everything
that’s built up to this point which is
hundreds of hours that is the paint job
as an overall thing but yeah I can’t
wait to see it in that final white and
kind of at that point you start to
envision getting all the shiny bits
bolted on and seeing it take shape
properly and kind of step one is getting
the suspension on getting the wheels on
and seeing it rolling and painted and
that’s just such a motivational boost at
that point I can’t wait
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