Mk1 Escort Rebuild - Retropower Gordon Murray Episode 13

 

In this episode we get a catch up on progress with the car prior to it going in for exhaust fabrication

 

Here's Episode 13:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Transcript :

"

coming back to the front of the car has
led me to think about one of the things
I'm quite proud of on this guy
we were talking last time about the sort
of parts that we're getting done
elsewhere and almost straight after
filming the last episode the fuel tank
arrived so that's a good place to start
fuel tank was designed by us and
fabricated by Bob at concept Racing who
we kind of give all of our sort of weld
porn aluminium fabrication if you like
just because he's a pretty good at that
sort of thing
and so when we had the car bare metal we
fabricated a plinth at the bottom there
to sit the fuel tank on - we didn't kind
of integrated the design where the fuel
tank was going to see it and we
integrated mounts into the shell for it
then we did the actual drawings for the
tank itself it's a foam filled tank it's
got a video tube type sender in there in
the middle of the top which has got a
float in the middle for the feed to the
gauge and then it's got a drop-down pot
in the middle under here which drops
into a recess that we actually
incorporated into the body shell and
that's only connected to the main part
of the tank via some very small holes
and that's that's sort of your main part
of your anti surge protection so when
when the tanks reasonably low on fuel
and your cornering hard or breaking
accelerating hard doesn't matter where
the fuel sloshes in the tank that pot
will always have their sort of reserve
of fuel in it so there's no interruption
to the fuel supply to the engine so that
pot then feeds this Bosch fuel pump here
basho 44 pump out the filter and then
out through these bulkhead fittings
which run to the front of the car via
the fuel rail and back again and then
the return goes back into the pot so the
fuels always being circulated in the
return of fuel feeds back into that pot
making extra sure that that pot always
has a reserve of fuel in it and then the
phone filling on the tank obviously
helps as well that just means there's
literally like an open cell
fuel resistant foam that fills the hole
fills the whole of that tank so when
you're filling when you fill the tank
with fuel effectively it's kind of
absorbed into a large block of foam if
you like which means that it can't
quickly slosh around the tank as well
which also helps with the anti surge
there are a couple of details on the
design of the tank the we always
designed it so that the tank would
overhang the fuel pump and filter so we
could do a trim panel off the back of
here which then hides those fuel system
components and that's what this flange
at the top here part part of it was to
mount this and vent line here and the
other the other reason for that was so
we could mount the trim panel and the
venting we've done on the tank is also a
relevant thing to talk about we've got a
dash six spigot in both sides at the
front here and then a smaller - through
both sides at the front and there's two
reasons you need to vent the tank one is
as the fuel expands or contracts or
you're actually using the fuel obviously
air needs to be able to go into the tank
to take up the space as the fuel level
drops so the small vents in there for
that kind of induced venting if you like
the other venting thing is literally
just a filling issue when you fill the
tank air can actually come out through
the filler neck but you'd probably
always have this it works fine when
you're jerrycan it but when you use if a
fork or petrol station pump the air rush
up the neck actually clicks the pump out
and you're you have loads of problems
with the pump clicking out if you don't
vent it higher than where the end of the
nozzle is which is why and in most cars
particularly all the cars you'll see
that there's a vent off the side of the
filler neck a little way down from the
cap which is actually venting air from
the tank out through the filler neck but
above the point of the end of the filler
the nozzle of the gun and that's what
we've done we've got a big connection
both sides here they two together and
then they're attached to a spigot on the
side of the filler neck here so when
you're actually filling the end of your
filler gun will be down here so the air
is venting out above that but it's still
coming out and through the actual filler
hole and the reason we've got on both
sides is so that regardless of even if
you were filling the car and a slight
slope you would still be able to brim
the tank completely
and if you're coming up announces other
we wanted to actually use the original
escort
cap so we've got the very end of the
original escort filler neck and cut it
off
that's moil steel so that we've then
made the rest of the pipe in mild steel
so we could weld it to that and then
that's actually been galvanized which is
the only bit on the car that's
galvanized most of the mild steel parts
zinc electroplated galvanizing as a
dipping process it's literally like you
could imagine it as basically dipping
something in molten zinc so that
definitely coats completely that pipe
inside and out so you don't get any
corrosion I mean obviously we could
obviously paint the outside as well but
the inside wouldn't get any coating on
it and that would mean over time the
inside of that pipe would would rust
actually is obviously an issue we did
the mounts for that when they when the
shell was a bare metal shell especially
touch on the reason the batteries here
may mainly because of the space in the
engine bay is seriously a premium there
wouldn't really be room in there for the
battery given that the dry sump tanks in
the engine bay but as an added bonus
it's also helping with the weight
distribution gets a bit more weight in
the back obviously on earth in a car
light it's whether you've got the engine
and transmission at the front the axle
is a lot lighter than that and you do
end up with a bit more weight at the
front than the back so having a battery
at the back and the spare wheel will go
the other side we actually modified the
side of the floor there so we can get a
full-size spare wheel the same as all
the other ones on the car in there which
means you still maintaining a reasonable
side-to-side weight balance with the
spare in the battery and shifting a bit
more weight sort of towards the back of
the car to help balance out from the
front to rear weight the boot area is
completely sealed from the cockpit of
the car so there's no fuel risk of fuel
vapor coming out into the car and also
obviously if there was an accident then
and the burst the fuel tank there's no
risk of that getting into the front of
the car or it happen to be a pretty
serious accident for it for that to
happen this sort of complication to the
pole cutting was that there's a air
outlet vents here at the back of the
windscreen which which helped with this
through flow of fresh air through the
car that air has to come out somewhere
which is what these are and then there's
actually a passageway under the scuttle
here
which leads to these holes on the parcel
shelf that just provided a little extra
challenge on the bull getting because if
we literally built headed straight
paneled straight across under here to
block up these it would have blocked off
that airflow so we've done we've
basically done like a little sort of
panel that creates a cavity if you like
under there and actually duct the air
from here to here still open but blocks
off completely from the boot area so
that's not battery cable obviously then
feeds through the car to the front so
I'll show you where that comes out
so although you can't see it the battery
cable comes through the car and then
comes up to a little through bulkhead
panel connector on the bulkhead behind
the airbox there on the car side it's
there's a second connection which splits
off to feed the PDU and then on the
engine bay side there's a cable coming
off from there to the starter motor and
then from there to the alternator but
coming back to the front of the car has
led me to think about one of the things
I'm quite proud of on this guy which is
the bonnet release which on these early
cars was just a button in the grille on
the later cars they had a cable inside I
think we talked about this last time in
fact we might have might have seen it
being done but now we've had it black
anodized you can kind of see the full
effect that it looks for all the world
like it's just the normal light style
grille with no bite release button
except this slap here releases the bone
which I thought was quite a little
feature we've got the bonnet prop in now
this is the later style arrangement
where the prophecy attaches to the
bonnet we've obviously had to make some
reinforcements because this is into a
carbon-fibre bonnet and then the
receptacle down here that's normally a
spot welded part on the shell but we've
kind of always keen to avoid spot welded
brackets like that on the shell because
there's always when you paint them a
small shadowed area where you just
couldn't get paint in there which is
always always going to lead to corrosion
so we just put some threaded inserts in
the shell there when it was when it was
a bare metal shell and now we've made
that receiver in it's not stainless
steel that we've had powder-coated and
then we made a little nylon plinth that
it sits on so that when the props
actually in it it's not resting directly
onto the paintwork of the car I'm not
chafing away at the paint there it just
sits onto that nylon pad and so that's
that
we've also got a strip race in position
now and a more recent addition is the
air box which reverie have supplied the
air box the the standard cause of back
light was too deep to actually fit the
standard off-the-shelf air box in so
we've had the back plate made shallower
by reverie so that we could keep because
of backplate and usually our air box in
there and well that's turned out really
nicely and then this perfectly points
towards the spigot that we fabricated
into the back of the front panel so
there'll be a flexible part between
there and there so you get cold air flow
we probably talked about this when it
was bare metal but the front panel is
almost completely blocked off apart from
the gap where the radiator is and that
round spigot there so you know all the
air that comes through the grille is
forced either through the radiator or
into the engine there and then I think
the last time we talked about the tanks
that we were just in the process of
making they're ready to go for anodizing
now that's the brake and clutch fluid
there's a level sensor in the back I
don't know if I mentioned that before
we've got a threaded bot in the back but
a float type level sensor sits in
because we wanted to have level sensing
for a warning light but didn't want an
ugly cap with a wire trailing off over
it so we've got a real nice no aluminium
captain that goes on there but it's got
a still got a level sensor in the back
and that sods the screen wash and that
feeds down through the bulkhead into the
main screen wash tank which I'll show
you
so that screen wash tank then feeds down
via a quite a large pipe into this which
is a large screen wash tank and but
we've obviously done it to serve two
purposes it's also doubles as the
footrest for the passenger with the seat
being so far back you need to have a
nice flat surface to rest your feet on
this side and we thought it was a that's
going to be black anodized and by the
time that's for the black anodized with
a black carpet around it it's kind of
like a subtle nod almost to the
navigators footrest of the old rally
cars back in the day but with it being
Blacky a little bit more knock back and
you know so for the pump and we'll
screen wash pump mounts on the back of
that tank and then feeds up to a revised
screen wash jet arrangement we've done
so that feeds screen wash up to the
through the bulkhead through a pipe that
goes to here and that feeds fluid out
into these two plastic extrusions on
each side they're open on this end and
closed on the other end and they have a
row of very small pinholes in this back
edge which is spaced between the slats
of this scuttle panel so the screen wash
actually Jets out between the slats of
the panel onto the screen so when you
look at the car there isn't obviously
any screen wash Jets there but there's
just a number of jets come out between
those slots and then we've got a an
updated wiper motor as well which we've
done and which sits inside the car we go
back down here probably won't be able to
see it but up under here is where the
wiper motors are always mounted a my own
escort on the inside of the scuttle so
well we've got the the basic mechanism
from the escort we've transplanted a
mark six mark seven and transit wiper
motor onto there with a custom crank
that we put onto it so it just has a
much more powerful motor with two speeds
and then we'll be controlling the
intermittent from the PDU which I'll
talk about in a bit while we're in here
also worth
we've got a steering column in steering
column is a Opel Manta steering column
which we chose for a couple of reasons
is a collapsible column which the
original isn't and B the switch gear on
it we absolutely love because it's just
a single stalk this this the look of
this stalk is exactly what we wanted for
this car it's kind of just lean and
purposeful and it covers a lot of
functions on just one stalk so you've
got indicate on here you've got main
beam tip beam half a pull this flash
turn it three-speed wiper so you've got
intermittent slow fast and then on the
end to push it the screen wash then
you've got a hold on the steering wheel
and with that combination of switch gear
with the headlight switch which is going
to sit in here that pretty much covers
almost all the functions that we need on
just one switch pedal box is in that's
just an off-the-shelf mark 1s core bias
pedal box so the master cylinders now
sit up under the dash here got one for
the clutch one for the front brake
circuit and one for the rear brake
circuit and the bias is adjusted via
what they call a balance bar which is
just the pivot point that the préval the
pedal pushes between the two master
cylinders biasing the leverage towards
front or rear depending on where you set
it and then we've also done the mounts
for the ECU the engine ECU which sits
over that side sort of on the inside of
the footwell panel right up where you
can't see it behind the dash and then
the PDU sits this side and I'll talk a
bit more about the PDU in a bit but what
I will do is just take this tank out and
show a few more of the details of this
this is the tank we fabricated this here
what was it done the dimple effect just
a to make it look a bit more interesting
and give a bit of a nod to that
passenger foot resting on the side
threaded bosses on the underside which
we've done to the appropriate depth for
the thickness of the carpet it's
obviously bolted up from underneath two
threaded bosses which were welded on the
inside before we welded the tank up and
that's where the screen wash pump mounts
that's the outlet which goes to the
screen watch pump which has a tube on
the inside of the tank which obviously
goes down to the bottom so it's picking
up fluid from the bottom and then that's
the spigot that goes up to the fill tank
at the top and this security is looking
piece here is a small tube that comes
out inside here we're going to be
running a little tube off the back of
that which actually runs inside that
main fill tube so it actually lets the
air flow out from in here into the top
tank whilst you're filling it so it just
fill it'll just fill smoothly without
going down into the tank and while we're
here I'll show you some of the other
stuff we've got these are the fascia
panels we've done for the - our mininum
they've been water jet cut because the
surface finish of the edges was going to
be the final visible finish so we wanted
them to be really nicely caught on the
sides so that's the main - fascia panel
that sits in front of the driver you'll
have a series of warning lights in these
holes and obviously the speedo and taco
and they're these which we've done for a
while actually but never showed you the
instruments we've had done these are
done by speed hut in the States and
we've asked I asked Gordon and he gave
us the go-ahead to put his Gordon Murray
design when I go on them just because I
thought that would be a really it's a
nicely proportioned logo to fit on a
gauge so we've got those on there on the
taco and on the speedo it's obviously a
digital Steffen motor drive on both of
these and so they're extremely shallow
and that'll be your digital readout for
your trip and you odometer the little
warning lights they go into these holes
they're just real simple and if you
think back to when we were doing it
roarings we just wanted a real kind of
basic looking fascia that had almost a
nod to kind of that seventies - look if
you like so we've got just some basic
LEDs with a little chrome bezel that
almost replicates the bustle of the taco
and then we'll be getting these fascia
panels anodized black and then we're
going to be engraving the wording on
through that black anodizing back to the
silver that shows you what the different
warning lights do so it'll be a main be
morning light indicate Telltale's and
warning lights for oil pressure
alternator and something else cut and
what the last one would be brake brake
fluid same on this this is the central
panel as the auxiliary gauges in we have
these made not without any indication on
the gauge of what they do because that
will be engraved into the aluminium
underneath each gauge so rather than it
saying on the face of the gauge it's a
nice little design feature that it's
engraved underneath and then this piece
sort and goes into here and that as the
control three of the controls there'll
be the fan speed for the heater the
temperature control for the and the air
direction for the heater which selects
between feet face D mist or combination
of those and then the last one will be
the headlamp switch that's also going to
be black anodized and will also engrave
onto these are in fact underneath here
will be engraved what those controls do
yeah so that's kind of the the the
facial panels come in together
we're just waiting at the moment because
we want to send all of the things
they're going to be on a dog's back off
together
so although we've got tons of it already
the bits we haven't got are the machined
parts for the dryer sump tank because
we'll be will be analyzed in that black
as well we talked about when I was over
at the car the PDU that's mounted in the
footwell and so what would quite like to
do is show you a bit more detail of why
we're using that and and the programming
of that I'll come to the office come
through to my office
PDU it's basically a little box like an
ECU it's got three connectors on it one
is the main power feeding from the
battery and then there are two connected
multi pin connectors there Deutsch
Autosport connectors which are like
really really high spec military spec
connectors one of them has got a large
number I think 50 odd pins really small
pins and the other ones on this unit
which we using which is a 16 channel PD
use got 16 larger pins on it and the
connector with the large number is the
input or the is the input connector and
the other one is the output connector
and essentially on the output connector
each pin on that plug feeds a wire which
goes to a component on the car so that
could be a light or it could be a motor
whatever there there the output channels
you've got battery voltage voltage being
fed into the battery and put on there
and then on the input connector
they are feeds in from anything like a
switch on the car this is the software
we're using a PD from the life Racing by
the way so you've basically faced with a
blank grid select which PD you using
we've got 16 channel 1 and you're just
presented with a blank screen like this
simple as that and down the side here
are the components you can add to this
screen and in its most basic form you've
got inputs and outputs here so I drag an
input onto here that represents now a
physical input on the input connector
let's say horns ok that's more like the
most basic circuits you could do on here
my horn button on the on the car is
connected to pin 15 so I select pin 15
and then drag it out over here I know my
ones connected to pin 8 on the output
connector so I can select pin 8 and then
it's most simple form all I need to do
is draw a line from there to there and
then whenever I apply voltage or ground
to pin 15 it
turn on the horn but if I then if I put
a different component yeah if I like put
output let's say side lights which is
output one if I put put one here and
drew the line to that this same input
would turn on the solid lights instead
and then that's where it gets more
exciting it is when you start going into
more depth on the output properties this
is where the fusing comes into it on the
output properties you can select the
fusing and page that you want that
component to trip out at this one as the
cars with building go this one's pretty
straightforward some of the things we've
done they're just ridiculous amounts of
electronics on the way it doesn't get
quite complicated
this one's reasonably straightforward
because there just aren't that many
electrical components so I start by
listing all those connectors that will
connect to the main components of the
electrical system lists the individual
wires that will be there and from that
work out what type of connector I'm
going to need once we've got that list
of the connectors in the car and the
main ones which are the PDU input and
output connectors i then i've got to
work out every wire that connects these
compile these plugs to these plugs list
all those wires and then it would be
working out the length of those wires so
the next stage would be I'll do a rough
schematic of where the wires will be
routed physically in the car then go and
measure up on the car exactly the length
between all the different components so
then I can fill in my spreadsheet where
there's a list of all the wires that I
need then I can fill in the length of
each of those wires and then finally the
gauge the thickness to each of those
wise needs to be to cope with the
current that's going to be true and when
we've done that it comes to the easy bit
we just cut all the wires label them or
lay them all out heat shrink em all four
connectors on the ends and hopefully it
all works easy
next stages exhaust is going away next
week to go to BTB and they're going to
make an exhaust to expect we've kind of
agreed between us I've seen some of the
work they've started which looks amazing
so excited to see that when it comes
back here with everything done better in
the manifold as well so we're going to
literally stick it on transport it as it
is now they're going to build the entire
manifold and system or I've got to back
which will hopefully get to see you in
the next episode and then it gets
transported back here and we can carry
on the bill in the meantime the
machining work on the dry sump tank
components will be done so we'll be able
to crack on basically with the next
phase which is getting the oil system
plumbing done just want we've got the
exhaust done and the oil plumbing done
at that point we are getting pretty
close to being on the soil so you know
hopefully that'll be within a month
you
just randomly or something
that is job lists and parts ordering
lists each clipboard represents a car
there basically lists are try and ignore
and not do anything about
  "
Source : https://youtu.be/zYwKzy1oZP4