Episode 7 of Retropower’s Gordon Murray Mk1 build covers the end of the heavy metalwork. The shell leaves the jig for a rotisserie, the instrument binnacle and rear structure are finished, and the team explains the “dry build”, where the whole car is assembled before paint.
Video: Retropower on YouTube · watch “Gordon Murray's MK1 Escort - Retropower Build Episode 7” on YouTube
What happens in Episode 7
Off the jig (0:00). Retropower had four other cars nearing completion, so this episode was a while coming. The jig kept everything accurate while structure was cut out and rebuilt. Now the shell is on a rotisserie, so the welds that couldn’t be reached from above can be finished without welding upside down. Turned over, the shell shows how little original metal is left; the team names the chassis legs and the rear of the boot floor as original. After that comes blasting and a thermal zinc spray on the underside.
Instrument binnacle (2:27). A new steel binnacle replaces the original. The gauges are different, and they sit lower so the lowered wheel doesn’t hide them from the tall Gordon. Both faces are angled straight at the driver’s eyes. There are holes behind for LED warning lights, which will be labelled on an engraved anodised aluminium panel. The gauge holes are sized so the instruments’ own retainers clamp both panels together, with no visible fixings. A moulded soft pad will go on top, like the original.
Rear structure (6:27). A cross tube stiffens the shell and gives a curved join between the parcel shelf and the bulkhead. It also carries harness mounts, so Gordon can use normal belts with harnesses as an option. Rolled beads stop the panels drumming. The middle panel is left plain so it can be upholstered directly. Hatches in the shelf give access to the strut tops and damper adjusters, with bolt-on caps.
Turrets, floor and fuel tank (9:47). The strut turrets were built around a fixture that located the strut tops on the jig, accurate to every other suspension point. They’re tied into the cross tube. The floor over the axle is rebuilt with stiffening ribs. That gives room for the subframe and exhaust, and a flat base for the fuel tank, which sits forward to keep the weight well forward. A dip in the middle clears the tank’s anti-surge pot, which stops fuel starvation in hard corners. Each arch tube uses an outer arch repair panel so it sits tight to the quarter panel for maximum wheel clearance.
Rear valance (13:25). Gordon’s personal touch is a set of slots in the rear valance, plus a diffuser-shaped section painted black to make the back look wider and lower. The lights and bumper stay standard.
The dry build explained (15:04). Replacement panels rarely line up perfectly, so everything that could affect the metalwork is fitted to the bare shell. That way nobody drills fresh holes in new paint. The job list covers the door handles, quarter-light frames, seals, the heater unit, lights, new stainless bumpers, and every hole for wiring and plumbing clips. Those holes get threaded rivet inserts after paint, so no bare steel is left exposed. The goal is a rolling car with engine, gearbox, suspension, seats and instruments that Gordon can sit in, before it’s stripped again.
What’s next (20:17). The rear chassis legs get box sections around the turrets. The dry build has a deadline: Gordon is due in about three weeks. Every seam will then be stitched with TIG brazing for stiffness, which Gordon asked for. Then the shell is blasted again, the underside gets molten zinc sprayed from an oxy-propane gun, and it goes to the bodyshop for seam sealing.
Parts, tools and suppliers mentioned
- Rotisserie and build jig
- Fabricated steel binnacle, anodised and engraved aluminium panel, LED warning lights
- Harness mounting points, rolled-bead panels, damper access hatches
- New headlights, seals and stainless steel bumpers for the dry build
- Threaded rivet inserts, TIG brazing, thermal sprayed zinc
Lessons for your own Mk1
- Dry build before paint. Pattern panels and new parts rarely bolt straight on.
- Drill every clip and grommet hole in bare metal, so the paint covers the edges.
- Put the fuel tank in the plan early. Its position and anti-surge pot shape the floor.
- Seam welding adds stiffness to an old monocoque, but do it before blasting and paint.
- Get the owner in the car while changes are still easy.
Mk1 context
Mk1 Escort parts are widely available new, which Retropower notes makes a full dry build easier than on many classics, where new old stock is hard to find.
Related
- Series hub: all Retropower Gordon Murray Mk1 episodes
- Background: the complete history of the Mk1 Ford Escort
- More builds on video: Mk1 Escort build videos